Mămăligă is Romania's cornmeal polenta, cooked thick with water and salt until it firms enough to slice with a string. It arrives under brânză, smântână, fried egg and slănină, or alongside ciorbă and sarmale.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Mămăligă entered Romanian cooking when maize arrived from the Americas via Ottoman trade routes in the 17th century, displacing earlier millet porridge. Through the 18th and 19th centuries it became the peasant staple and the rural breakfast, named the national bread by the writers of the 1848 generation. The modern Bucharest restaurant version uses fine cornmeal cooked stiff, sliced with a thread, and served as a side or a centrepiece under cheese and sour cream.
Common allergens: Corn
Tip from the editors. Coarse cornmeal beats fine: it holds shape when cooled. The wooden-spoon stirring matters; metal spoons drag heat away and make the polenta gluey.
Vatra on Brezoianu cooks traditional Romanian on bakestones and in tin kettles, in a 1920s Transylvanian interior next to Cișmigiu Park in Bucharest.
Signature: Sarmale, Tochitură, Romanian cheese plate
Order: Sarmale with mămăligă; the cheese plate of Brașov sheep and Sibiu cow.
Tip: The veranda opens May through October; lunch fixed menu is 45 RON.
Poet Mircea Dinescu's Lacrimi și Sfinți on Șepcari pours wines from his Cetate estate alongside modern Romanian classics in Bucharest Old Town today.
Signature: Sarmale, Mămăligă cu brânză, Slănină plate
Order: The signature sarmale; a glass of Cetate Riesling Italian.
Tip: The wine list is heavy on Dinescu's own bottlings; ask the room for the day's house pour.
The 1879 Caru' cu bere on Stavropoleos serves the soul of Bucharest dining, where mici were recorded in a 1920 chef's letter to the Academy.
Signature: Mici, Sarmale, Papanași
Order: Mici with mustard and ciorbă de burtă, then papanași for dessert.
Tip: Walk-up queues from 12:30 onward; the upstairs hall has the live folk band.
The 1808 caravanserai-turned-restaurant Hanu' lui Manuc on Franceză serves classic Romanian plates around one of Europe's last remaining inn courtyards.
Signature: Mici, Sarmale, Lamb tochitură
Order: Mici and a lamb tochitură; the cabbage rolls feed two.
Tip: The courtyard fills first; ask for a balcony table inside the U-shaped inn.
Crama Domnească sits in the cellar of the Princely Court on Șelari, the Princely Wine Cellar in Bucharest, with live folk and house wines by carafe.
Signature: Sarmale, Mămăligă, Ciorbă de burtă
Order: Mămăligă with brânză and smântână; a clay-pot tochitură.
Tip: Live taraf music every evening; cash and card both accepted.
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