History

Maizes zupa evolved as a Latvian peasant way to use stale rupjmaize that would otherwise go to waste. The bread is soaked, sweetened with honey or sugar, and cooked with dried apples, raisins and cinnamon into a thick, dark pudding-soup served as dessert. The dish is unusual internationally because it transforms a savoury staple into something sweet. Pētergailis and other traditional Latvian rooms serve it as a dessert course; LIDO stocks it on the buffet line.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g stale Latvian dark rye bread, broken into chunks
  • 1.5 litres water
  • 100g brown sugar
  • 100g dried apple slices
  • 100g raisins
  • 50g dried cranberries
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • Whipped cream, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the broken rye bread chunks in the water for at least 2 hours until completely softened.
  2. Transfer the bread-and-water mixture to a heavy pot. Add the brown sugar, dried apple slices, raisins, cranberries, cinnamon stick and lemon zest.
  3. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently to break up the bread into a thick, dark mixture, about 20 minutes.
  4. Remove the cinnamon stick. Pass the soup through a sieve for a smoother texture, or leave rustic.
  5. Cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 2 hours; the soup is served cold or just barely warm.
  6. Ladle into bowls and top with a generous spoonful of unsweetened whipped cream.

Tip from the editors. The soup thickens as it sits. If it sets too firm in the fridge, loosen with a splash of water before serving.

Where to eat maizes zupa (sweet rye bread soup)

Maizes zupa (sweet rye bread soup) in Riga

Pētergailis ★ 4.2

€€ Traditional LatvianVecriga

Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.

OrderThe grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.

TipNamed for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.

Directions Book

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs ★ 4.0

€ LithuanianCentraltirgus Maskavas

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.

TryLatvian buffet plates

TipPay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.

Directions

LIDO Vērmanītis ★ 3.9

€ LithuanianCentrs

LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.

TryLatvian counter plates

TipWeekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.

Directions

Milda ★ 4.5

€€ Traditional LatvianVecriga

Milda on Grēcinieku in Old Town holds a Bib Gourmand for great-value traditional Latvian and Lithuanian cooking, named for the figure atop the Freedom.

OrderGrey peas with bacon and sour cream, the national dish, served generously.

TipBooked solid for Sunday lunch; weekday lunches are an easier sit. The wine list is short but well-chosen for Baltic food.

Directions Book

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