Loco moco
Photo: California Cow from Seattle, USA · CC BY 2.0

History

The loco moco came out of Hilo's Lincoln Grill in 1949 when a gang of teenagers called the Lincoln Wreckers asked owner Nancy Inouye for a cheap, fast lunch. She dropped rice in a saimin bowl, topped with a hamburger patty, a fried egg and brown gravy. The first boy nicknamed Loco gave the dish its name. Cafe 100 in Hilo, opened in 1946 by 442nd Infantry veteran Richard Miyashiro, now sells 29 variations. Rainbow Drive-In in Kapahulu Honolulu has slung the canonical version since 1961.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 20 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g ground beef (80/20 chuck)
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 350ml beef stock
  • 1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)
  • 2 large eggs
  • 400g cooked short-grain rice, kept hot

Method

  1. Mix the beef with Worcestershire, a heavy pinch of salt and several grinds of pepper. Shape into 2 patties about 2cm thick.
  2. Heat a heavy skillet over high heat. Sear the patties 3 minutes per side for medium. Transfer to a warm plate.
  3. Lower the heat to medium. Add the butter and onion to the skillet. Cook 4 minutes until soft. Sprinkle the flour over and stir for 1 minute to cook out the raw taste.
  4. Whisk in the beef stock slowly to avoid lumps. Add the shoyu. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes until thickened. Season.
  5. In a non-stick pan, fry the eggs sunny side up in a film of oil. The yolk should still be runny.
  6. Build each bowl: two scoops hot rice, patty on top, egg on top of the patty, gravy ladled over the whole construction. Eat immediately.

Tip from the editors. The gravy can be made entirely in the burger pan; do not wash it between steps. The fond from the seared patty is half the flavour.

Where to eat loco moco

Loco moco in Honolulu

Rainbow Drive-In ★ 4.5

$ American BBQ

Rainbow Drive-In in Kapahulu Honolulu has slung budget plate lunches since 1961, with mix plates of loco moco, BBQ beef and boneless chicken averaging $11.

TryPlate lunch with two scoops rice

TipLunch peak 11:30-13:00. The mix plate at $14 is the most expensive plate and feeds two.

Zippy's Kapahulu ★ 3.8

$$ American dinerUntil Open 24 hours

Zippy's Kapahulu in Honolulu is the 24-hour diner of the local Higa-family chain, the city's most reliable late-night sit-down with chili, saimin and the Zip.

OrderChili and rice plus a side of mac salad.

TipOpen 24 hours, dine-in and drive-through. The chili and rice and a saimin bowl are the late-night order.

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More places near Rainbow Drive-In and Zippy's Kapahulu

Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.

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