History

Lamb fries came out of Kentucky's stockyard economy, when Lexington's sale barns left offal cheap and plentiful and frugal kitchens breaded and fried what the trade left behind. Columbia Steak House, feeding Lexington since 1948, made them a house signature alongside the Nighthawk Special, and old-line Bluegrass restaurants still serve them thin-sliced, crisp and with cream gravy for dipping.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 as a starterHands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g lamb testicles, cleaned and membrane removed
  • 250ml buttermilk
  • 150g plain flour
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Neutral oil for deep frying
  • 240ml cream gravy to serve
  • Lemon wedges

Method

  1. Soak the cleaned lamb fries in buttermilk for 30 minutes, then slice into 1cm rounds.
  2. Season the flour with paprika, salt and pepper; dredge each slice, shaking off the excess.
  3. Heat 5cm of oil to 180C and fry in small batches until golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes per batch.
  4. Drain on a rack, salt immediately, and serve hot with cream gravy and lemon.

Tip from the editors. Ask a butcher to clean them; slicing before breading keeps the texture tender rather than rubbery.

Where to eat lamb fries

Lamb fries in Lexington

Columbia Steak House ★ 4.2

Steakhouse$$Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun

Columbia Steak House has fed Lexington since 1948, still broiling the garlic-butter Nighthawk Special with a Diego salad and frying its famous lamb fries.

Signature: Nighthawk Special, Lamb fries, Diego salad

Tip: Order the Nighthawk Special with fried banana peppers; the Richmond Road room keeps the old-school feel.

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