Wisconsin lake perch is a sweet, mild freshwater fish, traditionally beer-battered or pan-fried, served on rye with tartar sauce, lemon and a brandy Old Fashioned.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Wisconsin lake perch has been the canonical Wisconsin fish fry fish since the early 20th century, when commercial fishing fleets out of Milwaukee, Sheboygan and Two Rivers landed perch by the ton. The Wisconsin DNR limited commercial perch fishing in the 1990s after stocks declined, but recreational fishing still supplies area restaurants, and Tornado Steak House, The Old Fashioned and Coopers Tavern in Madison feature it on the Friday fish fry.
Common allergens: Gluten, Fish
Tip from the editors. Yellow perch fillets are small, so fry in batches and don't crowd the pan. Walleye, cod or whitefish substitute fine if perch is unavailable.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Tornado Steak House on South Hamilton, the Capitol Square supper club, pairs a white-linen wine list with aged steaks and the Friday fish fry.
Signature pour: Steakhouse-paired California red or Wisconsin sparkling
Wine focus: Supper-club bottle list with steakhouse-friendly reds
Food: Wisconsin supper club menu, steaks and Friday fish fry
The Old Fashioned on North Pinckney, the Wisconsin-tavern flagship on Capitol Square, pours hundreds of Wisconsin beers and the brandy Old Fashioned standard.
Signature drink: Brandy Old Fashioned sweet, the city's standard
Food: Wisconsin supper club menu, fish fry, cheese curds
The Coopers Tavern on West Mifflin off Capitol Square, the craft-beer-and-Wisconsin-pub flagship, runs a kitchen until 23:00 on Fri-Sat with a fish fry.
Try: Gastropub menu, fish fry and Wisconsin tap beer
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