Hamburg's canonical sailor's hash combines corned beef, mashed potato, beetroot and onion into a pink mash, served with a fried egg on top, pickled herring (Rollmops) on the side, and gherkins.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Labskaus originated as a Hanseatic and British sailors' dish, a way to mash whatever was on board into one plate (potato, beef, fish, beetroot) on long voyages. The name comes from the English lobscouse, traced to Liverpool in the 18th century, with the Hamburg version codified by the 19th century. The Old Commercial Room on Englische Planke (opened 1795) is the city's canonical Labskaus address. By Hanseatic tradition the dish includes a fried egg, Rollmops and gherkin alongside.
Common allergens: Egg, Fish (in Rollmops)
Tip from the editors. Don't overmash the potato; the texture should still hold.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.
Order: The Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.
Tip: Open daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.
Deichgraf on the historic Deichstrasse in Hamburg cooks classical Hanseatic dishes on the city's oldest canal-side street, with a single beam from the pre-1842 building surviving in the Fleetdiele dining room.
Why locals love it: On the Deichstrasse canal-side row rebuilt after the 1842 fire, that most tourists walk past.
Tip: Window tables face the Nikolaifleet canal. Ask for the Labskaus with the original Rollmops topping.
Fischereihafen Restaurant on Grosse Elbstrasse in Hamburg-Altona has cooked classical Hanseatic seafood since 1981, with daily catch from the harbour below.
Order: The Hamburger Aalsuppe; the Pannfisch with mustard sauce.
Tip: Window-row tables face the Elbe; ask at booking. Open daily 11:30 to 22:00.
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