Hungarian chimney cake, a sweet yeasted dough wound around a wooden spit, brushed with butter and sugar, then rolled over coal until the sugar caramelises into a crisp shell.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Kürtőskalács is a Transylvanian Hungarian tradition that arrived in Budapest in force from the early 2000s. The cinnamon-walnut version is the standard; coal-fire rolling at the counter is part of the show. The cake takes its name from the Hungarian kürtő (chimney), describing the hollow tube created by the spit.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg
Tip from the editors. Without a proper rotating spit, improvise with a foil-wrapped, oiled rolling pin held over a hot grill; turn constantly.
Karavan on Kazinczy stays open until 01:00 Thursday to Saturday, the late-night Budapest stop after the Szimpla ruin bar for langos, burgers.
Try: Lángos, burgers, kürtőskalács
Order: A garlic-and-cheese lángos with a Soproni beer at the picnic table.
Tip: Late-night until 01:00 Thursday to Saturday; the langos and kurtoskalacs counters move fast.
Molnar's on Vaci utca rolls chimney cake over an open coal fire and serves cinnamon, walnut and chocolate variants to a brisk downtown queue in Budapest.
Order: The cinnamon kürtőskalács straight off the fire while still warm.
Tip: Cash and card accepted; the coal-fire counter is at the door, watch the rolling.
Worth the queue: Cinnamon kürtőskalács
Stika on Dob utca in the Jewish Quarter bakes laminated pastry, sourdough loaves and kurtoskalacs in a former kosher bakery, a new-wave Budapest morning room.
Order: The cinnamon kurtoskalacs with a cortado from the espresso bar.
Tip: Closed Mondays; the line runs out the door by 09:30 on weekends.
Worth the queue: Kürtőskalács
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