The Store ★ 4.2
The Store on Gore Street in the Britomart Pavilions, Auckland runs all-day brunch out of a heritage warehouse. Smashed avocado, hotcakes, Allpress.
Order: Smashed avocado on sourdough with poached eggs
History
Kumara (Ipomoea batatas) is the sweet potato brought by Maori from eastern Polynesia around 1300 CE. It was the foundational starch of pre-European Maori cuisine, cultivated in pa (fortified village) gardens across the North Island. The orange-fleshed variety dominates modern New Zealand markets; red and gold varieties grow in Northland. Through the 20th century kumara moved from Maori staple to national vegetable; today it sits in every Auckland cafe and brunch room as a chip or fry, often with aioli or lemon-thyme salt. Kumara fries became canonical brunch sides in the 1990s alongside the rise of the modern New Zealand cafe.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1kg orange-fleshed kumara, scrubbed, cut into 1.5cm thick wedges
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tsp flaky sea salt
- 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- Aioli (homemade or shop-bought) to serve
Method
- Preheat oven to 200C fan.
- Toss kumara wedges with olive oil, salt, rosemary and paprika in a large bowl.
- Spread on a heavy baking tray in a single layer with space between wedges.
- Roast 25 minutes. Flip wedges with tongs.
- Roast another 15-20 minutes until crisp on the edges and tender inside.
- Serve immediately with a bowl of aioli for dipping.
Tip from the editors. Kumara browns less aggressively than potato; the smoked paprika gives the colour fries get from frying.
Where to eat kumara fries
Kumara Fries in Auckland
Depot Eatery ★ 4.7
Depot is Al Brown's no-reservations Federal Street eatery under the Sky Tower in Auckland CBD. Charcoal grill, raw bar, communal high-top seating.
Signature: Snapper sliders, Tuatua fritters, Oysters from the bar
More cities are in research. Want kumara fries covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.