History

Kumara (Ipomoea batatas) is the sweet potato brought by Maori from eastern Polynesia around 1300 CE. It was the foundational starch of pre-European Maori cuisine, cultivated in pa (fortified village) gardens across the North Island. The orange-fleshed variety dominates modern New Zealand markets; red and gold varieties grow in Northland. Through the 20th century kumara moved from Maori staple to national vegetable; today it sits in every Auckland cafe and brunch room as a chip or fry, often with aioli or lemon-thyme salt. Kumara fries became canonical brunch sides in the 1990s alongside the rise of the modern New Zealand cafe.

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Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 10 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1kg orange-fleshed kumara, scrubbed, cut into 1.5cm thick wedges
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tsp flaky sea salt
  • 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • Aioli (homemade or shop-bought) to serve

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 200C fan.
  2. Toss kumara wedges with olive oil, salt, rosemary and paprika in a large bowl.
  3. Spread on a heavy baking tray in a single layer with space between wedges.
  4. Roast 25 minutes. Flip wedges with tongs.
  5. Roast another 15-20 minutes until crisp on the edges and tender inside.
  6. Serve immediately with a bowl of aioli for dipping.

Tip from the editors. Kumara browns less aggressively than potato; the smoked paprika gives the colour fries get from frying.

Where to eat kumara fries

Kumara Fries in Auckland

The Store ★ 4.2

$$ NZD $18-26BrunchAll-day modern New ZealandBritomart

The Store on Gore Street in the Britomart Pavilions, Auckland runs all-day brunch out of a heritage warehouse. Smashed avocado, hotcakes, Allpress.

OrderSmashed avocado on sourdough with poached eggs

Depot Eatery ★ 4.7

$$ New AmericanAuckland Cbd

Depot is Al Brown's no-reservations Federal Street eatery under the Sky Tower in Auckland CBD. Charcoal grill, raw bar, communal high-top seating.

SignatureSnapper sliders, Tuatua fritters, Oysters from the bar

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More places near The Store and Depot Eatery

Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.

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