Koulouri Thessalonikis ★ 4.2
The koulouri bakery-cart at Tsimiski 12 is the cleanest version of the city's oldest street food ritual: sesame-crusted bread rings baked from 05:30.
History
The koulouri dates to the Ottoman bazaar tradition and was sold around the Covered Market in Thessaloniki before refrigeration, baking, or any modern food infrastructure existed. The specific Thessaloniki recipe with the sesame-dough ratio has been transmitted through a network of family bakeries for generations.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 600g strong white bread flour
- 100g wholemeal flour
- 10g instant dried yeast
- 1 tbsp caster sugar
- 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 400ml warm water
- 200g raw white sesame seeds, for coating
- 100ml water mixed with 2 tbsp grape molasses (petimezi) or honey, for dipping
Method
- Combine flours, yeast, sugar and salt in a stand mixer bowl. Add the olive oil and warm water.
- Knead on low speed for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. The dough should be soft but not sticky.
- Cover and prove until doubled, about 90 minutes.
- Knock back and divide into 12 even pieces (about 90g each).
- Roll each piece into a rope 35cm long. Join the ends to form a ring, pinching firmly so they do not pop open in the oven.
- Pour the sesame seeds onto one tray and the petimezi-water onto another.
- Dip each ring in the petimezi-water then press firmly into the sesame seeds on both sides. The molasses turns the seeds dark gold during baking.
- Place on lined baking sheets and rest 25 minutes. Heat the oven to 220C.
- Bake for 15 to 18 minutes until deep gold and the underside sounds hollow when tapped. Cool 10 minutes on a rack.
- Eat warm or within 8 hours; koulouri is meant for the same day.
Tip from the editors. Petimezi (grape molasses) is the authentic dipping liquid; honey-water is the accepted modern substitute. Plain water gives pale rings without the dark sesame finish.
Where to eat koulouri thessalonikis
Koulouri Thessalonikis in Thessaloniki
Bantis Bougatsa ★ 4.8
The most authentic Thessaloniki brunch: cream bougatsa with cinnamon at the marble counter from 06:30. At Panagias Faneromenis 33. Booking recommended.
Thanasis ★ 4.0
Thanasis on Egnatia is the address for hot galaktoboureko, the semolina custard pastry in crisp phyllo drenched with citrus syrup. At Egnatia 48.
Koukos 1953 ★ 4.1
Koukos at Vogatsikou 10 across from the Metropolitan Church serves the city's most celebrated tyropita recipe (passed down since 1953) for under 2 euros.
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