History

Kölsch is one of two beers legally protected by city of origin in Germany (alongside Düsseldorfer Altbier), regulated under the 1986 Kölsch Konvention which restricts production to roughly 60 breweries within the Cologne area. The pale top-fermenting yeast and cold conditioning combine ale character with lager clarity. Früh, Gaffel and Päffgen are the most widely available brands; the city pours roughly 1.5 million hectolitres each year, almost all in 0.2L glasses.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 20Hands-on 4 hrTotal PT6WDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 4.5kg German Pilsner malt
  • 300g Munich malt
  • 200g Vienna malt
  • 20g Hallertau Hersbrucker hops at 60 min boil
  • 20g Tettnanger hops at 15 min boil
  • Wyeast 2565 Kölsch yeast or White Labs WLP029
  • 20L brewing water adjusted to soft profile (low calcium, low sulphate)
  • Priming sugar for bottle conditioning (around 4g/L)

Method

  1. Mash the malts at 65C for 60 minutes in 14L of brewing water. Sparge with 76C water to collect roughly 24L of wort.
  2. Boil the wort 60 minutes. Add the Hersbrucker hops at the start of the boil and the Tettnanger at 15 minutes from the end.
  3. Cool the wort rapidly to 16C, transfer to a sanitised fermenter, and pitch the Kölsch yeast.
  4. Ferment at 14 to 16C for 10 to 14 days. This is the Kölsch signature: ale yeast at lager temperatures.
  5. Once primary fermentation is complete (gravity stable for 3 days), cold-condition (lagern) at 1 to 3C for 4 weeks. This is non-negotiable for Kölsch clarity.
  6. Bottle with priming sugar at 4g/L for 2 to 3 weeks at room temperature, then refrigerate.
  7. Serve at 7C in tall 0.2L Stange glasses; pour from a height to build a tight head.

Tip from the editors. Real Kölsch can only be brewed inside Cologne under the Konvention. Anything you brew at home is Kölsch-style ale. The cold lager step is the difference.

Where to eat kölsch

Kölsch in Cologne

Brauerei Päffgen ★ 4.5

Cologne Brauhaus€friesenviertelDaily from 12:00

Brauerei Päffgen in Cologne's Friesenviertel is the last independent house brewery in the city, founded by Hermann Päffgen in 1883; still hand-brewing.

Order: Päffgen Kölsch served at the bar with Tatar on dark bread; the only correct way to start an evening here

Tip: Reservations by phone only from noon. Beer exclusively from the barrel. The Brauhaus is open from 12:00 daily.

Friesenstrasse 64-66, 50670 Köln

Brauerei zur Malzmühle ★ 4.3

Kölsch Brauhaus€€altstadtMon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Brauerei zur Malzmühle on Cologne's Heumarkt has brewed Mühlen Kölsch since 1858 and once served Bill Clinton; consistently fresh pours in the Altstadt.

Order: Halve Hahn, the traditional rye roll with aged Gouda, alongside a freshly tapped Mühlen Kölsch

Tip: Monday to Thursday from 14:00, Friday to Sunday from noon. Less tourist-heavy than the Cathedral-adjacent Brauhäuser.

Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln

Früh am Dom ★ 4.1

Cologne Brauhaus€€altstadtSun-Thu 10:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-01:30

Früh am Dom in Cologne is the second-largest brewery pub in Germany, steps from the Cathedral, seating 1,500 and pouring Früh Kölsch all day.

Order: Himmel un Ääd with Mettbrötchen to start; the Bratwurst platter for the table

Tip: Open from 08:00 on weekends; the best terrace tables face the Heinzelmännchenbrunnen fountain.

Am Hof 12-18, 50667 Köln Book →

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