History

Kiluvõileib pairs Estonia's two cornerstone ingredients: smoked Baltic sprat (kilu) and dense rye bread (leib). The sprat fishery has run on the Estonian Baltic since the medieval Hanseatic period, with sprat preserved in salt and oil for the winter months. The open sandwich became the everyday small plate of the early Soviet era, when meat was scarce and the canned sprat was always available. It remains the bar snack at most Estonian taverns and a staple at home for afternoon tea.

Common allergens: Fish, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 15 minTotal 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 8 slices Estonian rye bread (or any dense sourdough rye)
  • 100g salted butter, softened
  • 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
  • 1 can smoked Baltic sprats in oil, drained
  • 1 small bunch dill, chopped
  • 1 small red onion, finely sliced
  • Black pepper

Method

  1. Toast the rye bread lightly or leave fresh, as you prefer.
  2. Spread each slice generously with butter.
  3. Lay slices of hard-boiled egg over the butter.
  4. Top with two or three sprats per slice, then scatter onion, dill and black pepper.
  5. Serve immediately on a wooden board with a glass of Vana Tallinn or cold beer.

Tip from the editors. Use canned smoked sprats from a Baltic brand if you can find them; the colder-water sprat is fattier than other sardines.

Where to eat kiluvõileib

Kiluvõileib in Tallinn

Olde Hansa ★ 4.4

Estonian€€Daily 11:00-00:00; kitchen 11:00-23:00Until Daily 00:00

Olde Hansa on Vana turg runs the medieval Hanseatic feast in candlelight until midnight every night, with live hurdy-gurdy and bagpipe music Wed to Sat.

Try: Medieval Hanseatic feast with live music

III Draakon ★ 4.3

EstonianDaily 11:00-23:00

III Draakon under the Town Hall serves elk soup, pirukad pastries and house beer for a few euros each in a medieval-themed candle-lit cellar.

Try: Elk soup and savoury pirukad

Rataskaevu 16 ★ 4.8

Estonian Comfort Food€€vanalinnMon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Rataskaevu 16 is the Old Town's mid-priced Estonian comfort-food room, with braised elk, beef tenderloin and chef's choice white fish on a dietary menu.

Signature: Braised elk roast, Beef tenderloin

Order: Braised elk roast with potato and beetroot gratin (€28.60); add the Estonian cheese platter.

Tip: Book a week ahead in summer. Sister room Väike Rataskaevu at Niguliste 6 takes the overflow with a smaller menu.

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