History

The Niebieska Nyska (Blue Nysa) van has fired up its charcoal grill on plac Hala Targowa since the 1970s, when entrepreneur Krzysztof Cuber started selling grilled kielbasa from an old Polish Nysa milk van after the official market closed. The van is open only after sundown (typically 21:00-03:00), and the queue regularly reaches an hour on weekend nights.

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Warsaw

Guided tour · 3h 30m

Warsaw: Polish Food Tour

The Polish food tour is a great way to experience a must-try cuisine of this amazing country. A professional guide will teach you all there is to...

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Common allergens: Gluten, Mustard

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 35 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 thick smoked Polish kielbasa (kielbasa wiejska or kielbasa krakowska)
  • 4 fresh bread rolls (kajzerka or a soft white bun)
  • 4 thick slices of Polish rye bread (chleb razowy)
  • Polish mustard (musztarda sarepska or Krakus mustard)
  • 1 small jar of pickled cucumbers (ogorki kiszone), sliced
  • Wood charcoal for the grill (essential for the flavour)
  • A few sprigs fresh marjoram, finely chopped
  • 1 small white onion, finely diced (optional)

Method

  1. Light a chimney of wood charcoal and let it burn down to glowing embers; this is the only acceptable heat source for proper Blue Van flavour.
  2. Score the kielbasa diagonally three times along each side, 5mm deep; this lets the smoke penetrate and the fat render.
  3. Place sausages directly over the embers. Grill 4 minutes per side, turning twice, until the skin is deeply charred and the fat is bubbling out of the slashes.
  4. Toast the bread rolls cut-side down at the edge of the grill for 30 seconds.
  5. Toast the rye bread slices directly over the embers for 90 seconds per side until lightly singed at the edges.
  6. Slit the rolls and squeeze in a thick zigzag of Polish mustard.
  7. Place a hot kielbasa in each roll. Top with onion and pickled cucumber slices.
  8. Serve each sandwich with a slice of charred rye on the side and a small beer or a glass of vodka. Eat standing up the Niebieska Nyska way.

Tip from the editors. Wood charcoal is the only acceptable fuel; gas or briquettes give a totally different sausage. Stoke the fire to glowing white-grey embers and there should be no flames when the sausages go on.

Where to eat kiełbaska z niebieskiej nyski (blue van sausage)

Kiełbaska z Niebieskiej Nyski (Blue Van Sausage) in Kraków

Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski (Blue Van) ★ 4.5

$$ Food hallUntil 02:00 Mon-Sat, closed SundayCash only

The blue Nysa van outside Kraków's Hala Targowa grills kielbasa from 20:00 until 02:00. At ul. Grzegórzecka 5. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

TryGrilled kielbasa

TipCash only. Closed Sunday. Bread, sausage, mustard, 15 zl. Long queue past midnight; faster after 01:00.

Directions

Stara Zajezdnia ★ 4.3

$$ BreweryPolish lager and unfiltered wheat

Stara Zajezdnia in Kraków's Kazimierz is the brewpub in a former tram depot: four house beers brewed on-site, a courtyard beer garden, full Polish-grill.

TipHouse pilsner is the order; the Wheat beer the spring pour. Courtyard beer garden in summer.

Directions

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą ★ 4.5

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: full meal, soup-main-kompot, all in under 25 zl since the 1960s.

TryFull Polish meal under 25 zl

TipBring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers.

Directions

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