Lithuanian€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00
LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.
Try: Latvian buffet plates
Tip: Pay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.
Lithuanian€centrsDaily 10:00-22:00
LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.
Try: Latvian counter plates
Tip: Weekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.
Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaDaily 12:00-24:00
Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.
Signature: Pelēkie zirņi (grey peas), Roasted Latvian pork, Karbonāde
Order: The grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.
Tip: Named for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.
Lithuanian€€vecrigaMon 14:00-02:00; Tue-Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri 16:00-04:00; Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-04:00Until Open until 04:00 Fri-Sat
Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs is Old Town's most reliable late-night cellar, 32 Latvian beer taps with folk music until 02:00 weekdays and 04:00 on weekends.
Try: Latvian beer and pub plates
Order: A late-night Latvian craft beer flight with a plate of pelēkie zirņi.
Tip: Open until 04:00 on Saturday is unusual for Riga; the cellar absorbs the post-club crowd around the Old Town.