History
Jingisukan came to Hokkaido in the 1930s as the Japanese government tried to encourage wool production by promoting lamb-eating. By the 1950s, Sapporo Brewery was serving the dish at its company picnics. Daruma opened in 1954 with the Sapporo atozuke (dip-after-grill) style; Matsuo Jingisukan, founded 1956 in Takikawa, runs the marinade-first style. The Sapporo Beer Garden opened to the public 1976, marrying jingisukan with the brewery's draft as the city's defining group meal. The two styles still split Sapporo: Daruma's plain-cut atozuke versus Matsuo's pre-marinated aizome.