History

Icelandic langoustine, humar, is prized for its sweetness, pulled from the cold waters off the south coast. The soup made its name at Saegreifinn, the harbour shack where a former fisherman started ladling it in 2003, and travellers now cross Reykjavik for a bowl. A good humarsupa simmers the shells for a tomato-tinged bisque, then finishes with cream and the reserved tails, served with bread to mop the bowl.

Common allergens: Crustaceans, Milk

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 600g whole langoustines (or large tiger prawns with shells)
  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 1 leek (white part only), finely diced
  • 2 celery sticks, finely diced
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 1 small fennel bulb, finely diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 60g tomato puree
  • 60ml brandy or Cognac
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 1.2L fish stock or shellfish stock
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 tbsp finely chopped tarragon
  • Pinch saffron threads
  • Sea salt, white pepper, cayenne
  • Crusty bread, to serve

Method

  1. Twist tails off the langoustines, peel and reserve the meat. Keep all heads and shells.
  2. Melt 30g butter in a heavy pot, add shells and heads, crush with the back of a wooden spoon and roast 12 minutes until deep red and fragrant.
  3. Add leek, celery, carrot, fennel, and garlic. Cook 8 minutes until softened.
  4. Stir in tomato puree, cook 3 minutes. Flame with brandy, then add wine and reduce by half.
  5. Pour in fish stock and saffron, simmer 40 minutes, skimming foam.
  6. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing the shells hard. Pass once more through muslin if you want it silky.
  7. Return to a clean pan, reduce by a third. Whisk in cream and remaining butter. Season with salt, white pepper, and a tiny pinch of cayenne.
  8. Just before serving, slice the langoustine tails into rounds and warm in the soup for 90 seconds. Scatter tarragon. Serve with bread.

Tip from the editors. Never boil the soup after adding the cream; if it bubbles hard the bisque splits into a thin liquid and a fat layer in under a minute.

Where to eat humarsupa (langoustine soup)

Humarsupa (langoustine soup) in Reykjavik

Saegreifinn ★ 4.3

Seafood$$101-grandiDaily 11:30-22:00

Green fisherman's hut by the old harbour on Geirsgata since 1992, world-famous lobster soup plus grilled fish and lamb skewers; Sea Baron of Reykjavik.

Why locals love it: A green shack among the harbour sheds with barrels for seats, it looks like nothing, yet inside is the langoustine soup travellers cross the city to find.

Tip: Seating is communal on barrels and benches. The langoustine soup with bread is the only order you need.

Kopar ★ 4.3

Seafood$$$101-grandiMon 17:00-21:00; Tue-Thu 11:30-15:00 and 17:00-21:00; Fri 11:30-15:00 and 17:00-21:30; Sat 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-21:30; Sun 17:00-21:00

Kopar sits over the water at the Old Harbour on Geirsgata, a Reykjavik seafood room that leans on local langoustine and cod with vegan plates too.

Signature: Langoustine, Cod

Order: The langoustine, or the signature cod with whatever is in season.

Tip: Ask for a window table over the harbour. Lunch is the cheaper way into the same kitchen.

Hofnin ★ 4.1

Seafood$$$101-grandiMon-Wed 11:30-14:00 and 17:30-21:00; Thu-Sun 11:30-14:00 and 17:30-22:00

Hofnin, The Harbour, fills a 1930s house on Geirsgata with family-run Icelandic seafood, a Reykjavik room for shellfish soup and plokkfiskur by the marina.

Signature: Shellfish soup, Plokkfiskur

Order: The shellfish soup, or plokkfiskur, the creamy Icelandic fish-and-potato stew.

Tip: Window tables look out on Mount Esja across the water. Popular, so book ahead in summer.

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