History

The term 'hokey pokey' for honeycomb toffee appears in New Zealand from the late 19th century. The ice cream version emerged in the mid-20th century, with solid toffee pieces. The defining moment was around 1980, when manufacturer Tip Top switched to small balls of honeycomb toffee, creating the form Kiwis know today. Hokey pokey has become a frequently cited piece of Kiwiana (the everyday national identity); the ice cream has been exported to Japan, Australia and the Pacific Islands. Tip Top still produces the canonical version, though many small NZ ice cream makers now run their own honeycomb-based flavours.

Common allergens: Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500ml double cream
  • 300ml full-fat milk
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 150g caster sugar
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • For the honeycomb: 200g caster sugar, 5 tbsp golden syrup, 2 tsp baking soda

Method

  1. Make honeycomb: line a tray with baking paper. Heat sugar and golden syrup over medium heat without stirring until deep amber (about 7 minutes).
  2. Remove from heat, immediately whisk in baking soda. Pour onto tray (mixture will foam). Cool fully (1 hour).
  3. Make custard: heat cream, milk and vanilla in a saucepan to just below boiling.
  4. Whisk yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale. Pour warm cream over yolks, whisking continuously.
  5. Return to saucepan, cook over low heat stirring with a wooden spoon until thick enough to coat the back (about 8 minutes). Strain and chill 4 hours.
  6. Churn in an ice cream maker. Smash honeycomb into small balls and fold through. Freeze 2 hours to firm.

Tip from the editors. Make the honeycomb fresh; pre-bought hokey pokey absorbs ice cream moisture and goes soft.

Where to eat hokey pokey ice cream

Hokey Pokey Ice Cream in Auckland

Bestie ★ 4.5

CaféCafe brunch$$NZD $14-26karangahape-roadMon-Fri 07:30-15:00; Sat-Sun 09:00-16:00Walk-in for under 8

Bestie in St Kevins Arcade off Karangahape Road, Auckland runs brunch through to 4pm on weekends. French toast, seasonal cakes and filter coffee.

Order: Brioche French toast with seasonal fruit

The Store ★ 4.2

BrunchAll-day modern New Zealand$$NZD $18-26britomartWalk-in

The Store on Gore Street in the Britomart Pavilions, Auckland runs all-day brunch out of a heritage warehouse. Smashed avocado, hotcakes, Allpress.

Order: Smashed avocado on sourdough with poached eggs

More cities are in research. Want hokey pokey ice cream covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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