History

Rundstueck Warm originated in 19th-century Hamburg as a working-class harbour-worker lunch, slices of roast beef in a round bread roll (Rundstueck) with the cooking gravy poured over. The dish gives Hamburg its name-share with the modern hamburger; food historians trace the hamburger via German immigrants to New York and to Texas in the 1880s. The original Rundstueck Warm is now rare; the Old Commercial Room and a handful of traditional taverns still serve it.

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Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.2kg beef topside
  • 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • Bouquet garni: 2 bay leaves, thyme, parsley
  • 500ml beef stock
  • 100ml red wine
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 4 fresh round bread rolls (Rundstuecke)

Method

  1. Sear the beef in oil on all sides until brown; remove.
  2. Soften onion and carrot in the same pan 5 minutes.
  3. Add the beef back, the herbs, stock and wine. Cover; roast at 160C 90 minutes.
  4. Remove the beef; rest 15 minutes. Strain the cooking liquid.
  5. Make the gravy: heat 2 tablespoons of the cooking fat in a small pan, whisk in flour, cook 2 minutes; pour in the strained liquid and whisk to a thick sauce.
  6. Slice the beef very thin. Halve the rolls; layer in the beef hot.
  7. Spoon the gravy over the beef; close the roll, serve immediately, knife and fork.

Tip from the editors. The gravy must be hot enough to soak the bread; this is the point of the dish.

Where to eat rundstueck warm

Rundstueck Warm in Hamburg

Old Commercial Room ★ 4.4

€€ GermanNeustadt

Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.

OrderThe Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.

TipOpen daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.

Deichgraf ★ 4.2

€€ GermanNeustadt

Deichgraf on the historic Deichstrasse in Hamburg cooks classical Hanseatic dishes on the city's oldest canal-side street, with a single beam.

Why locals goOn the Deichstrasse canal-side row rebuilt after the 1842 fire, that most tourists walk past.

TipWindow tables face the Nikolaifleet canal. Ask for the Labskaus with the original Rollmops topping.

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