History

The half-smoke was born on U Street. Ben Ali and his wife Virginia opened Ben's Chili Bowl at 1213 U Street NW in August 1958, in a former silent-movie house, and built the chili half-smoke into the city's defining sandwich. The link itself, larger and coarser than a hot dog and lightly smoked before being grilled, has been made for Ben's by Manger Packing in Maryland for decades. The U Street riots of April 1968 left Ben's as one of the few neighbourhood businesses standing; the room fed protestors, fire crews and reporters around the clock. Anthony Bourdain, Barack Obama and most US senators have eaten one. Weenie Beenie in Arlington has its own claim to predating Ben's by a few years, but the chili-half-smoke template at Ben's is the canonical DC dish.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 large coarse-ground half-beef-half-pork smoked sausages (200g each), or kielbasa as a substitute
  • 4 soft top-split hot dog buns (New England style)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 200ml prepared all-meat beef chili (no beans), warmed
  • Yellow mustard, to serve
  • 1 small white onion, finely diced
  • Hot sauce, to serve

Method

  1. Heat a flat-top griddle or large cast-iron pan over medium heat. Score each sausage lengthwise about three-quarters of the way through, opening it like a book.
  2. Lay the sausages cut-side down on the griddle. Cook 4 to 5 minutes a side, pressing lightly with a spatula, until the cut face is mahogany and crisp at the edges.
  3. Brush the inside of each bun with melted butter and toast cut-side down on the griddle for 30 seconds.
  4. Place a sausage in each bun. Spoon over 50ml warm chili, a thick squiggle of yellow mustard, a tablespoon of diced onion. Top with hot sauce to taste.
  5. Eat immediately, leaning over the plate.

Tip from the editors. Real half-smokes are coarser than a hot dog; if you can't find one, ask a butcher for a coarse-ground beef-and-pork smoked sausage rather than a fine emulsion frank.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat half-smoke

Half-smoke in Washington DC

Ben's Chili Bowl ★ 4.6

Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the U Street half-smoke counter since 1958, the city's defining cheap-eat with the chili half-smoke at $7.95 and a fountain drink for $4 more.

Try: Chili half-smoke ($7.95)

Tip: Pair a chili half-smoke with the chili cheese fries to share; $20 covers two people including drinks.

Weenie Beenie ★ 4.0

Mon-Sat 06:00-22:00, Sun 06:00-20:00

Weenie Beenie is the Arlington half-smoke counter at 2680 South Shirlington Road, a 1950s walk-up window that claims a Northern Virginia hold on the half-smoke that predates Ben's Chili Bowl.

Try: Half-smoke chili dog (Arlington)

Tip: The Weenie Beenie half-smoke is leaner than Ben's; the chili-and-cheese order is the editorial point of comparison.

Ben's Next Door ★ 4.2

Soul-American$$u-street

Ben's Next Door in Washington DC is the sit-down sister of Ben's Chili Bowl at 1211 U Street, a soul-American kitchen with a cocktail list and the half-smoke from the original menu.

Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken, Half-smoke platter

Order: The buttermilk fried chicken with mac and collards; the room's most-ordered single dish.

Tip: The bar runs late on weekends and is the better seat for a single diner; brunch fills up by 11:30.

More cities are in research. Want half-smoke covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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