Hakarl (fermented shark)
Photo: Xfigpower · CC BY-SA 3.0

History

Fresh Greenland shark is poisonous because of its urea and trimethylamine oxide, and the fermenting and drying make it safe to eat. Hakarl is sold all year but turns up most in thorramatur, the buffet of the midwinter Thorrablot. Kolaportid advertises the famous sour shark, Cafe Loki sells a fermented shark and brennivin tasting, and Kaffivagninn runs a Rotten Shark Club tasting with a shot of Black Death brennivin and a beer.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Hands-on 15 minTotal 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 120g cured hakarl (sold ready cured, for example at Kolaportid)
  • 1 small jar of pickled red cabbage
  • 1 small loaf rugbraud (dark Icelandic rye), sliced thin
  • 120g salted Icelandic butter
  • 1 bottle Brennivin (Icelandic caraway aquavit), well-chilled
  • Small shot glasses, room temperature

Method

  1. Pour the Brennivin into the freezer at least 4 hours ahead; it should pour viscously.
  2. Cut the hakarl into 1cm cubes. The smell is sharp and ammoniac; this is normal and means the cure worked.
  3. Spear each cube with a toothpick.
  4. Slice rugbraud thinly, butter heavily, and cut into small squares.
  5. Set out the hakarl, the rye-butter squares, and a small bowl of pickled cabbage on a wooden board.
  6. Pour a small Brennivin shot per person.
  7. Eat one cube of hakarl on a toothpick, chase immediately with the Brennivin, then a square of buttered rugbraud and a forkful of cabbage to finish the palate.
  8. Repeat as ritual dictates. The shark is meant to be experienced, not enjoyed in the way other foods are.

Tip from the editors. Buy hakarl ready cured: fresh Greenland shark is poisonous and needs weeks of fermenting and months of drying, so treat this as a serving ritual.

Where to eat hakarl (fermented shark)

Hakarl (fermented shark) in Reykjavik

Kolaportid ★ 4.2

Market101

Kolaportid is Iceland's largest flea market, with hundreds of stalls in the old customs house by the Reykjavik harbour, open every Saturday and Sunday.

TipHundreds of stalls under one roof sell souvenirs, antiques, handknitted clothing, fresh bread and the famous fermented shark.

Directions

Cafe Loki ★ 4.2

Icelandic101

Café Loki is a restaurant across from Hallgrímskirkja serving Icelandic home-style food, with rye bread slices with mashed fish and rye bread ice cream.

Why locals goA family-run restaurant on two floors right across from Hallgrímskirkja, the most famous landmark in Reykjavik, cooking classic Icelandic home-style food.

TipThere are no table reservations, so it is first come, first served.

Directions

Kaffivagninn ★ 4.1

Icelandic101 Grandi

Kaffivagninn, founded in 1935 by the Reykjavik harbor, calls itself the oldest restaurant in Iceland and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Why locals goIt began as founder Bjarni Kristjánsson's small coffee truck serving the heroes of the sea at the harbor, and the house that still hosts Kaffivagninn was built soon after.

TipOrder the catch of the day, which the site says is served where the fishermen themselves eat; breakfast runs daily until 11:00.

Directions

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