History

Frita cubana originated in 1920s Havana, a Cuban riff on the American hamburger using paprika, cumin and ground chorizo in the patty. Cuban exiles brought the dish to Miami in the 1960s; El Mago de las Fritas in West Miami (opened 1984) and El Rey de las Fritas (4 Miami locations) hold the modern canon. The signature topping of crispy shoestring potatoes (papas julianas) sets the frita apart from any other burger format. Best eaten at lunch counters, never on white tablecloths.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • For the patty: 500g lean ground beef (15% fat)
  • 150g raw chorizo (Spanish-style, not Mexican), finely chopped
  • 1 small onion finely grated
  • 2 garlic cloves minced
  • 2 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/2 tsp ground oregano
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 tbsp dry white wine
  • 4 small soft Cuban bread rolls (or brioche burger buns)
  • 60g butter, softened
  • 1 large white onion, finely diced (for topping)
  • For shoestring potatoes: 2 large baking potatoes; 1L neutral oil for frying; sea salt
  • Yellow mustard or ketchup, optional

Method

  1. Make the shoestring potatoes first: peel and cut potatoes into 2mm-thick matchsticks using a mandoline (or julienne by hand). Rinse twice in cold water to remove starch. Dry thoroughly on towels.
  2. Heat oil to 170C. Fry potatoes in batches 4 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain on paper; salt immediately. Keep warm.
  3. Combine beef, chorizo, onion, garlic, paprika, cumin, oregano, salt, pepper, tomato paste and wine. Mix gently (overworking makes tough patties). Rest 20 minutes for flavours to mingle.
  4. Divide into 4 portions; shape into thin patties 12cm wide and 1cm thick (thinner than American burgers).
  5. Heat a cast-iron pan over high. Sear patties 90 seconds per side; the chorizo fat helps the crust.
  6. Butter the cut faces of the rolls. Toast in the same pan 30 seconds.
  7. Assemble: bottom bun, patty, big pile of shoestring potatoes (this is the signature; pile high), diced raw onion, top bun.
  8. Press the bun gently to crush the potatoes into the meat. Serve immediately while the potatoes are still crisp.

Tip from the editors. Shoestring potatoes are non-negotiable; add at the last minute. Pre-fried they go soggy within 5 minutes of meeting the patty.

Where to eat frita cubana

Frita cubana in Miami

Enriqueta's Sandwich Shop ★ 4.6

Caribbean$$

Enriqueta's Sandwich Shop between Wynwood and Edgewater in Miami is a 1988 Cuban counter with pan con bistec under ten dollars, closed Sundays only.

Why locals love it: Hidden between Wynwood and Edgewater since 1988, this Cuban counter still keeps a pan con bistec lower than ten dollars and locals know to arrive by 9am.

Tip: Closed Sundays. Counter only; the line moves fast but the dining-room seating is limited.

186 NE 29th St, Miami, FL 33137

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