Teater Bodega ★ 3.8
The long-established bodega kitchen serves proper Danish classics at prices that have not kept pace with inflation. At Skolegade 7. Booking recommended.
Try: Frikadeller med rødkål
Danish pork and veal meatballs, shaped by hand into an oval and fried in butter until golden and cooked through. Served with boiled or caramelised potatoes, pickled red cabbage and a simple gravy.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Frikadeller have been the Danish home-cooking centrepiece since at least the 18th century, with the first published recipe appearing in Madam Mangor's 1837 Kogebog for Smaa Husholdninger. The pork-and-veal combination is specific to Denmark; the oval hand-shape is the test of technique. Every Danish grandmother has a recipe she considers the definitive one.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Eggs
Tip from the editors. Sparkling water makes the mixture lighter; still water or milk is more traditional. The frikadeller should puff slightly in the pan; if they do not, the mixture needs more aeration.
The long-established bodega kitchen serves proper Danish classics at prices that have not kept pace with inflation. At Skolegade 7. Booking recommended.
Try: Frikadeller med rødkål
A cosy timber-beamed inn in the Latin Quarter serving honest Danish cooking. Tuesday to Thursday it is quieter. The roast pork with crackling is the order.
Why locals love it: Hidden down Graven behind the Cathedral, easy to walk past. No booking system and no website; it fills by locals who know it is there.
Tip: Tuesday to Thursday it is quieter. The roast pork with crackling is the order.
Restaurant Kohalen at the end of Jaegergaardsgade serves classic Danish lunch in premises that date to 1907, with roast pork, steak sandwiches and open.
Order: Stegt flæsk with potatoes and parsley sauce; a Nordic lunch institution in an warm-lit room.
Tip: Monday to Saturday 11:00-18:00, walk-ins only. The building itself dates to the old slaughterhouse district and the atmosphere reflects it.
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