History

Foie gras production in the southwest dates to Roman antiquity but expanded commercially in the 19th century, with Strasbourg and Toulouse vying as production capitals. Today southwest France produces 70 percent of European foie gras, the Gers as the third-largest producer (after Landes and Pyrenees-Atlantiques). The Toulouse goose, a regional subvariety, was historically central to the city's industry.

Common allergens: Egg (in pate)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 8Hands-on 45 minTotal 48 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 1 raw duck foie gras, 500-600g, deveined
  • 8g sea salt
  • 2g freshly ground black pepper
  • 1g Espelette pepper
  • 20ml Armagnac
  • 20ml Sauternes
  • 1 sheet cheesecloth

Method

  1. Devein the foie gras carefully with the back of a small knife. Keep the lobes intact where possible.
  2. Season with salt, both peppers, Armagnac and Sauternes. Rest in the fridge 4 hours.
  3. Roll the foie gras tightly in cheesecloth, twisting the ends like a torchon. Tie with string.
  4. Bring a pot of water to 70C exactly. Poach the wrapped foie gras for 12 minutes.
  5. Remove and chill in iced water for 5 minutes to stop cooking.
  6. Refrigerate the wrapped torchon for at least 48 hours so flavors meld.
  7. Unwrap and slice with a hot knife. Serve with toasted brioche and a Sauternes glass.

Tip from the editors. Temperature control is critical: 70C exactly. Cooler and the foie does not set, hotter and it renders fat. Use a probe thermometer.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat foie gras du sud-ouest

Foie gras du Sud-Ouest in Toulouse

Chez Navarre ★ 4.5

saint-etienne

Why locals love it: Saint-Etienne table d'hotes with shared long tables, adopted as a canteen by locals and missed by visitors who stick to Capitole.

Tip: Eat at the long shared tables; bookings essential, the locals adopt it as a canteen.

Restaurant Emile ★ 4.6

gascon€€€saint-georges

Restaurant Emile on Toulouse's pedestrian Place Saint-Georges has been the canonical cassoulet address since 1947, with chef Christophe Fasan in charge.

Signature: Cassoulet de Toulouse with confit duck, Magret de canard, Foie gras maison

Tip: Order the cassoulet pre-loaded with confit duck, not the all-pork version; ask for the second-floor terrace table on a warm evening.

Le Genty Magre ★ 4.5

gascon€€€carmes

Le Genty Magre between Esquirol and Capitole is chef Romain Brard's southwestern dining room, winner of the 2023 Toulouse Cassoulet Championship.

Signature: Cassoulet de Toulouse, Bourgeois southwestern menu, Foie gras

Tip: The cassoulet sells in glass jars to take home; book the small inner room for the calmer service.

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