Flaming saganaki
Photo: Scouten · CC BY-SA 3.0

History

Flaming saganaki was invented in 1968 at the Parthenon restaurant on Halsted Street in Chicago's old Greektown. Owner Chris Liakouras put a match to brandy-doused fried cheese at the suggestion of a regular customer; the table cried OPA in delight, and the format was born. Every other Greek restaurant on Halsted adopted it within months. Saganaki itself (pan-fried cheese with lemon) is an ancient Greek meze, but the flaming brandy treatment is a 100% Chicago invention. The Parthenon closed in 2016 after 48 years, but the tradition is carried on at Greek Islands (since 1971), Athena, 9 Muses and Ithaki Estiatorio on the surviving South Halsted strip.

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Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 10 minTotal 10 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g kefalograviera cheese (or graviera, or kefalotyri), cut into 4 slabs about 2cm thick (sub: a hard sheep's-milk cheese if you cannot find Greek)
  • 60g plain flour
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • 60ml Metaxa brandy (Greek; sub cognac)
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • Crusty bread, sliced and toasted

Method

  1. Soak the cheese slabs in cold water for 5 minutes (this stops them from burning before the surface crisps).
  2. Pat the slabs gently dry. Dredge in flour, shaking off any excess.
  3. Heat olive oil and butter in a small heavy frying pan (the Greek pan is also called a saganaki, hence the dish name) over medium-high heat until the butter foams.
  4. Add the cheese slabs. Fry 90 seconds on one side until deep golden and a crust forms. Flip carefully (a fish slice helps) and fry 60 more seconds.
  5. Take the pan off the heat. Warm the brandy in a small saucepan or microwave for 10 seconds (cold brandy won't ignite).
  6. Carry the pan to the table.
  7. Pour the warm brandy over the cheese. Light with a long match; the brandy will burst into a tall blue flame.
  8. Shout OPA. Squeeze the lemon over the flames; the citrus juice extinguishes the fire (and is the Chicago Greektown finishing move).
  9. Serve immediately with toasted bread; eat by spreading the soft cheese onto the bread with a spoon.

Tip from the editors. Warm the brandy before lighting; cold brandy poured onto warm cheese will not ignite. A long match (or extended-tip lighter) and a steady hand are essential.

Where to eat flaming saganaki

Flaming saganaki in Chicago

Greek Islands ★ 4.0

$$ GreekGreektown

Greek Islands in Chicago is the Greektown standard on South Halsted since 1971, with the flaming saganaki tableside-presentation that the neighbourhood made.

OrderSaganaki (Opa!), lamb on the spit, gyros plate to share.

TipSunday lunch with the family is the room's natural use. Book a long table and a bottle of Boutari.

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