History

Duckfat opened on Middle Street in Portland in 2005 under chef Rob Evans (formerly of Hugo's, the city's first James Beard winner) and his wife Nancy Pugh. The conceit was a casual sandwich shop where the fries were the structural centrepiece: hand-cut Maine potatoes fried twice in pure duck fat, in the Belgian frites tradition rather than the American style. The dish became Maine's most-photographed plate of food, written up by Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, and the New York Times within the first three years. Evans expanded with Duckfat Frites Shack at Allagash Brewing and a takeaway shop, but the original Middle Street counter remains the canonical address.

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Common allergens: Egg (sauces)

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.2kg Yukon Gold or Maine russet potatoes (firm, low-moisture; the Duckfat-canonical Maine cut)
  • 1.5L pure rendered duck fat (sold tinned at specialty butchers and quality grocers; or 1L duck fat plus 500ml peanut oil for a lighter version)
  • Maldon sea salt flakes
  • 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives
  • 1 tsp finely chopped fresh tarragon
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • For truffle ketchup dipping sauce: 200g Heinz ketchup
  • 1 tbsp white truffle oil
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
  • For curry mayonnaise dipping sauce: 200g Kewpie or whole-egg mayonnaise
  • 1 tbsp Madras curry powder
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • pinch of cayenne
  • pinch of salt
  • For roasted garlic aioli: 200g Kewpie mayo, 1 head garlic (roasted whole at 200 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes wrapped in foil, then squeezed out), 1 tbsp lemon juice, sea salt

Method

  1. Peel the potatoes and cut into batons 1cm by 1cm thick and 8cm long (the Belgian-thick cut; not American shoestring).
  2. Rinse the cut potatoes thoroughly under cold running water until the water runs completely clear; this removes surface starch and is the structural step for crisp fries.
  3. Soak the rinsed potatoes in cold water for 30 minutes; drain and pat very dry on a clean tea towel.
  4. Heat the duck fat in a deep heavy pot to 150 degrees Celsius (using a thermometer).
  5. Blanch the potatoes in two batches: lower into the fat with a slotted spoon, fry 7 to 8 minutes until soft inside but still pale on the outside (a baton should give to gentle pressure but not collapse). Lift onto a wire rack to drain.
  6. Cool the par-fried potatoes completely on the rack for at least 30 minutes (and up to 4 hours, refrigerated). This rest is essential for the crisp shell.
  7. Make the dipping sauces while you wait: whisk each in a small bowl and chill until needed.
  8. Reheat the duck fat to 190 degrees Celsius (the second fry must be hotter than the first).
  9. Fry the potatoes in batches a second time for 2 to 3 minutes until deeply golden, crisp on the outside, and the inside is hot through.
  10. Drain briefly on paper, then while hot toss with Maldon sea salt, chopped chives and tarragon.
  11. Pile into paper cones (or in a single mound in a basket lined with parchment).
  12. Serve immediately with the three dipping sauces in small ramekins alongside.

Tip from the editors. The double-fry in duck fat is the structural rule; a single high-temperature fry never gives the proper crisp shell. Duck fat can be strained and reused 4 to 6 times for fries; store in the fridge between uses. Yukon Gold or Maine russet potatoes give the best balance of fluffy interior and crisp exterior.

Where to eat duckfat belgian fries

Duckfat Belgian Fries in Portland

Duckfat ★ 4.5

$$ New AmericanIndia StreetUntil Daily until 22:00

Duckfat on Middle Street runs duck fat fries, panini sandwiches and beignets to 22:00 daily, the Old Port late-night sandwich-and-fries stop after the bars.

TryDuck fat fries, beignets

TipCounter ordering after 21:00 moves fast; takeaway always available.

Directions

Duckfat Frites Shack ★ 4.5

$ New AmericanEast Bayside

Duckfat Frites Shack on Washington Avenue is the takeout window with frites, fried snacks, milkshakes and beer under fifteen dollars, picnic-table seating.

TryBelgian frites cone in duck fat

TipSeasonal April to October; cash and card both fine. Shared patio with Oxbow Blending next door, picnic-table seating only.

Directions

Bite Into Maine at Allagash ★ 4.5

$ Street foodNorth Deering

Bite Into Maine runs its lobster-roll truck and counter at the Allagash Brewing taproom on Industrial Way, Connecticut-style warm butter on a top-split bun.

TryMaine lobster roll, Connecticut-style with warm butter

TipSeasonal April through October. Original Bite Into Maine truck is at Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth.

Directions

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