A cuoppo di mare is a paper cone of mixed fried seafood -- squid rings, anchovies, small shrimp, tentacles -- battered lightly and fried to order in very hot oil, eaten standing from the paper without utensils.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
The cuoppo (paper cone) is the defining vessel of Neapolitan street food, used for anything sold hot from a friggitoria counter. The mare version uses the catch landed daily at Porta Nolana fish market; the terra version uses potato croquettes and frittatine. The friggitorie of the Pignasecca and the Spanish Quarter have sold cuoppi since at least the 1800s.
Common allergens: Gluten, Fish, Crustaceans, Molluscs
Tip from the editors. Cold batter hitting hot oil is what creates the crisp casing; mix the batter with refrigerator-cold liquid and fry immediately.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
The friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood in a paper cone) to the morning market crowd, the city's most affordable fresh-fried seafood.
Try: Cuoppo di mare
Tip: Cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00 when the fryers are hottest.
Passione Napoletana on Via dei Tribunali in Naples sells pizza al portafoglio (folded pocket pizza) at 2 euros from the window, the one-handed street lunch of the working quarter.
Try: Pizza al portafoglio
Tip: Pizza al portafoglio 2 euros at the window; no plates issued and no sit-down required. The queue moves in under 2 minutes.
More cities are in research. Want cuoppo di mare covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.