History

City chicken was born in Pittsburgh and the wider Rust Belt during the Great Depression, when pork and veal were cheaper than chicken. Cooks cubed the meat, skewered it to mimic a drumstick, then breaded and fried it. The dish persisted in Eastern European and Polish households and on diner menus; it still turns up at old-school restaurants and family Sunday tables across the region as a nostalgic comfort dish.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g pork shoulder, cubed
  • 300g veal, cubed
  • Wooden skewers
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 200g seasoned breadcrumbs
  • Flour for dredging
  • Oil for frying
  • Chicken or pork stock

Method

  1. Thread alternating cubes of pork and veal onto each wooden skewer.
  2. Dredge each skewer in flour, then beaten egg, then seasoned breadcrumbs.
  3. Brown the skewers in oil on all sides in a heavy pan.
  4. Transfer to a baking dish, add a splash of stock, cover and bake at 180C (350F) for 40 minutes until tender.
  5. Serve with mashed potatoes and the pan gravy.

Tip from the editors. Braising the breaded skewers after frying keeps the lean veal from drying out.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat city chicken

City chicken in Pittsburgh

Max's Allegheny Tavern ★ 4.0

north-side

Why locals love it: A century-old German tavern tucked in Deutschtown that survives the North Side's changes, off most visitors' radar.

Tip: Order schnitzel or sauerbraten with a German beer. A nod to the North Side's German immigrant roots.

S&D Polish Deli ★ 4.1

strip-district

Why locals love it: A Polish deli, grocery and pierogi counter on the Strip that gets overshadowed by the bigger Italian market names.

Tip: Buy a dozen pierogi to go and a kielbasa. Ask about the monthly pierogi-making class if you want to learn.

More cities are in research. Want city chicken covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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