History
Oakland's Chinatown is the country's fourth-largest, dating to the 1850s. Northern Chinese hand-pulled lamian noodles arrived with later waves of mainland migration in the 1980s and 1990s. Shan Dong on 10th Street has run the Bay Area's most-loved hand-pulled noodle counter for over thirty years, pulling fresh dough behind a glassed-in counter at the front of the room.
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Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g bread flour
- 275ml warm water
- 1 tsp salt
- 2 tbsp neutral oil for coating
- Sesame paste sauce: 60g sesame paste
- 30ml warm water
- 2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp Chinese black vinegar
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 cloves grated garlic
- Chopped scallion and cilantro to serve
Method
- Mix flour, water and salt in a large bowl. Knead 10 minutes until smooth and elastic.
- Coat the dough in oil. Cover and rest 2 hours at room temperature; the long rest lets the gluten relax for pulling.
- Divide the dough into 4 portions. Roll each into a long rope about 1cm thick.
- Hold each end of a rope and slap-stretch against the counter, doubling the rope and pulling until you have noodles of even thickness.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Cook the noodles 2 minutes; they cook fast when fresh.
- Drain and toss with the sesame paste sauce. Top with scallion and cilantro.
Tip from the editors. Hand-pulling takes practice. If the dough breaks, you over-pulled or under-rested. The 2-hour rest is non-negotiable.
Where to eat chinatown hand-pulled noodle
Chinatown hand-pulled noodle in Oakland
Shan Dong ★ 4.5
Shan Dong in Oakland Chinatown pulls hand-made noodles for under twelve dollars a bowl. Dumplings, chive pancakes and sesame noodles round out the menu.
OrderSesame paste noodles and pork dumplings under twelve dollars.
TipWatch them pull the noodles in the front window; weekday lunch hours have shorter lines.
Tay Ho Restaurant and Bar ★ 4.1
Tay Ho's 12th Street lunch hour runs Northern Vietnamese plates for under fifteen dollars. Bun cha Hanoi, banh xeo and rice bowls at the door.
OrderBun cha Hanoi for thirteen dollars at lunch.
TipLunch specials run 11 to 3 weekdays; the dinner menu doubles on price.
Vien Huong ★ 4.4
Vien Huong on Franklin in Oakland Chinatown cooks Chiu Chow Cantonese-Vietnamese plates breakfast through lunch. Quietly the corridor's best hu tieu.
OrderHu tieu noodle soup.
Why locals goChiu Chow Cantonese-Vietnamese fusion that even locals overlook for the more famous dim sum houses.
TipBreakfast and lunch only; cash only at the register.
More cities are in research. Want chinatown hand-pulled noodle covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.