History

Cepelinai (zeppelins) take their name from the German zeppelin airship that flew over Lithuania in 1908. The dish itself predates the airship by centuries as didžkukuliai. The modern cepelinai recipe of grated and shredded potato dough stuffed with pork-and-onion mixture solidified in interwar Lithuania (1918-1940) and became the national dish through Soviet kitchens. Today every Lithuanian restaurant runs a version, from Etno Dvaras's Heritage Fund recipe to Lokys's medieval-cellar plate.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg starchy potatoes (Russet or similar)
  • 500 g pork shoulder, finely diced
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste
  • 0.5 tsp black pepper
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 tbsp potato starch
  • 200 g pork bacon, diced for spirgučiai cracklings
  • 200 g cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 200 ml sour cream

Method

  1. Cook diced pork shoulder with half the onion, garlic, salt and pepper in a covered pan over low heat for 30 minutes until tender. Set aside to cool.
  2. Grate half the potatoes finely; chop the other half coarsely. Squeeze grated potatoes through a cloth to remove excess water (reserve the starchy liquid).
  3. Combine the grated and coarsely-chopped potatoes in a bowl. Add eggs, potato starch and the reserved potato starch from the bottom of the liquid. Mix to a sticky dough.
  4. Form a portion of dough into a flat oval, place a spoon of pork filling in the centre, then fold dough around the filling to form a zeppelin shape.
  5. Boil dumplings in a large pot of salted water for 25 to 30 minutes, until they float and the dough is cooked through.
  6. Render bacon to crisp cracklings; saute mushrooms in the rendered fat. Spoon over served cepelinai with a dollop of sour cream.

Tip from the editors. Use the right potatoes: starchy floury types only. Waxy potatoes will not bind. Squeeze the grated potato dry.

Where to eat cepelinai

Cepelinai in Vilnius

Lokys ★ 4.3

Lithuanian€€senamiestisDaily 12:00-24:00Until Daily 24:00

Lokys on Stiklių stays open to midnight every night; the medieval cellar that has fed Vilnius wild boar and venison since 1972 takes late-evening covers.

Try: Wild boar with lingonberry

Tip: Last bookings around 22:00; walk-ins possible later in the cellar. A solid post-Alchemikas dinner option.

Etno Dvaras (Aušros Vartų) ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€€senamiestisDaily 11:00-23:00

Etno Dvaras on Aušros Vartų cooks dishes certified by the Lithuanian Culinary Heritage Fund in a cavernous cellar with street-level windows on the strip.

Signature: Cepelinai, Bulvių blynai potato pancakes, Šaltibarščiai

Order: Cepelinai with bacon-mushroom sauce; pair with a bowl of šaltibarščiai cold beet soup.

Tip: Heritage Fund certification means every dish must be 100 years old by recipe. Touristy but real.

Senoji Trobelė ★ 4.2

Lithuanian€€naujamiestisMon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00

Senoji Trobelė on Naugarduko is a family-run Lithuanian room with painted ceilings and a 75-percent Žalgiris mead balsam fermented for two years.

Signature: Cepelinai, Vegetarian potato dumplings with spinach, Žalgiris mead balsam

Order: Cepelinai with curd cheese; finish with a glass of Žalgiris mead balsam.

Tip: Twelve minutes uphill from Vokiečių. Order the daily-baked linseed leaven bread to start.

Šnekutis ★ 4.3

Lithuanian€€senamiestisDaily 11:00-23:00

Šnekutis on Šv. Mikalojaus pours 30-plus Lithuanian beers including small-brewery filtered and unfiltered, with cepelinai and smoked-pig snacks.

Signature: Cepelinai, Smoked pig ear, Lithuanian beer flight

Order: Cepelinai with spirgučiai pork cracklings; pick the unfiltered farmhouse ale.

Tip: Užupis branch closed; this Mikalojaus room is the original Šnekutis. Book ahead for evening.

Užupio Kavinė ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€€uzupisDaily 11:00-23:00

Užupio Kavinė sits on the Vilnelė riverbank at the edge of the Republic of Užupis, the longest-running Lithuanian dining room of the bohemian district.

Signature: Cepelinai, Šaltibarščiai, Gira

Order: Cepelinai with curd cheese; cold beet šaltibarščiai in summer with new potatoes.

Tip: The terrace over the Vilnelė is the seat to ask for. The Užupis Constitution wall is across the bridge.

Forto Dvaras (Pilies) ★ 3.7

Lithuanian€€senamiestisDaily 11:00-24:00Until Daily 24:00

Forto Dvaras on Pilies stays open to midnight every night, the Old Town's reliable cepelinai-after-the-bars option with Lithuanian draught until last orders.

Try: Cepelinai with bacon-mushroom sauce

Tip: Last food order around 23:30. A solid post-Alchemikas Lithuanian-classics meal on Pilies.

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