History

Cedar-plank salmon is an ancient cooking technique of the Pacific Northwest Coast Salish nations, who would skewer salmon on cedar stakes around an open fire so the smoke would permeate the fish as it cooked. European settlers adapted the format in the late 19th century, and Portland fine-dining rooms standardised the modern oven-plank version through the late 20th century. Wild Pacific salmon from the Columbia and Willamette runs is the structural ingredient; the dish is on virtually every Portland fine-dining menu, including Le Pigeon, Departure and Andina.

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Common allergens: Fish, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 4 wild Pacific salmon fillets (king, sockeye or coho), about 180g each, skin on or off
  • 1 untreated Western Red Cedar grilling plank (about 40cm by 15cm; sold at quality cookware shops and Asian markets)
  • 2 tbsp coarse sea salt
  • For the rub: 1 tbsp brown sugar
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1/2 tsp garlic powder
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • pinch of cayenne
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard for brushing
  • 2 tbsp olive oil for brushing the plank
  • For the herb butter: 100g unsalted butter (soft)
  • 1 small shallot finely diced
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 tbsp finely chopped tarragon
  • 1 tbsp finely chopped chives
  • zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • To serve: roasted asparagus or peas, blistered cherry tomatoes, lemon wedges

Method

  1. Soak the cedar plank in cold water for at least 2 hours and up to 4 hours; weigh it down with a plate so it stays submerged. This is the structural step; an unsoaked plank catches fire in the oven.
  2. Make the herb butter: beat all herb butter ingredients in a bowl until smooth; roll into a log on parchment paper, twist the ends, chill until firm.
  3. Pat the salmon fillets very dry. Mix the rub ingredients in a small bowl; brush the flesh side of each fillet lightly with Dijon mustard then sprinkle the rub generously over the flesh.
  4. Heat the oven to 220 degrees Celsius (200 fan). Brush the soaked plank lightly with olive oil on the upper (cooking) side only.
  5. Lay the salmon fillets directly on the oiled plank, skin-side down, well spaced.
  6. Place the plank on a heavy baking sheet on the middle oven rack and roast 12 to 15 minutes (depending on thickness) until the salmon flakes when prodded but still glistens in the centre (internal temperature 50 to 53 degrees Celsius for medium-rare, the Portland standard).
  7. Rest 3 minutes on the plank to finish cooking.
  8. Plate each fillet directly off the plank onto warm plates. Top each fillet with a thick coin of the cold herb butter, which will start to melt over the warm fish.
  9. Add asparagus, blistered cherry tomatoes and a lemon wedge alongside. Pour a chilled Willamette Pinot Noir.

Tip from the editors. Wild Pacific salmon must not be overcooked; pull at medium-rare and let carryover finish it. Western Red Cedar is the canonical plank wood; alder also works (alder is what Pacific Northwest tribes traditionally used for smoking). Never use treated lumber or cedar from a hardware store.

Where to eat cedar-plank pacific northwest salmon

Cedar-Plank Pacific Northwest Salmon in Portland

Le Pigeon ★ 4.8

$$$$ Tasting $95-150French fine diningEast Burnside KernsChef Gabriel Rucker

James Beard winner Gabriel Rucker's communal-table French in Portland, with a chef's tasting available at the counter for spontaneous diners.

Book3 weeks ahead

TipThree communal tables take reservations on Tock. The chef's counter is walk-in only and turns over from 17:00.

Directions Book

Departure ★ 4.3

$$$$ Tasting $95Tasting menuDowntownChef Gregory Gourdet alum kitchen

The pan-Asian rooftop at The Nines in downtown Portland, with two outdoor decks looking at Mount Hood and a tasting menu available on weekends.

Book1 week ahead

TipTasting menu is available Thursday to Saturday by request when booking. The view at sunset is the point.

Directions Book

Tusk ★ 4.4

$$$$ Tasting $75-95Middle EasternEast Burnside KernsChef Sam Smith alum kitchen

The plant-led Middle Eastern dining room on East Burnside in Portland, with a chef's selection menu of mezze, lamb shoulder and seasonal vegetables.

Book2 weeks ahead

TipOrder the chef's selection menu for the table. The covered patio is the best seat in summer.

Directions

Olympia Provisions Southeast ★ 4.4

$$ EuropeanHawthorne Belmont

Portland's first salumeria, now a refined European bistro in the Central Eastside with house-cured charcuterie and a long pastry bar at the front.

OrderThe chef's charcuterie board with house-baked rye

TipChoucroute royale is on the menu year-round but tastes right in winter. Brunch on weekends from 10:00.

Directions Book

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