Wild-caught Pacific Northwest king or sockeye salmon roasted on a soaked cedar plank that perfumes the fish with smoke as it cooks, served with herb butter and seasonal Oregon vegetables.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Cedar-plank salmon is an ancient cooking technique of the Pacific Northwest Coast Salish nations, who would skewer salmon on cedar stakes around an open fire so the smoke would permeate the fish as it cooked. European settlers adapted the format in the late 19th century, and Portland fine-dining rooms standardised the modern oven-plank version through the late 20th century. Wild Pacific salmon from the Columbia and Willamette runs is the structural ingredient; the dish is on virtually every Portland fine-dining menu, including Le Pigeon, Departure and Andina.
Common allergens: Fish, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Wild Pacific salmon must not be overcooked; pull at medium-rare and let carryover finish it. Western Red Cedar is the canonical plank wood; alder also works (alder is what Pacific Northwest tribes traditionally used for smoking). Never use treated lumber or cedar from a hardware store.
James Beard winner Gabriel Rucker's communal-table French in Portland, with a chef's tasting available at the counter for spontaneous diners.
Tip: Three communal tables take reservations on Tock. The chef's counter is walk-in only and turns over from 17:00.
The pan-Asian rooftop at The Nines in downtown Portland, with two outdoor decks looking at Mount Hood and a tasting menu available on weekends.
Tip: Tasting menu is available Thursday to Saturday by request when booking. The view at sunset is the point.
The plant-led Middle Eastern dining room on East Burnside in Portland, with a chef's selection menu of mezze, lamb shoulder and seasonal vegetables.
Tip: Order the chef's selection menu for the table. The covered patio is the best seat in summer.
Portland's first salumeria, now a refined European bistro in the Central Eastside with house-cured charcuterie and a long pastry bar at the front.
Signature: Charcuterie board, Choucroute royale
Order: The chef's charcuterie board with house-baked rye
Tip: Choucroute royale is on the menu year-round but tastes right in winter. Brunch on weekends from 10:00.
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