Owamni ★ 5.0
Sean Sherman's Owamni at Water Works Park runs the country's pre-eminent Indigenous tasting kitchen in Minneapolis since 2021. Beard Best New Restaurant 2022.
Cedar-braised bison over manoomin (hand-harvested wild rice) is the canonical Indigenous Minneapolis dish: gamy bison shoulder slow-cooked over wood, plated with smoky lake-grown rice.
Where to eat it: 1 restaurant across 1 city.
The Twin Cities sit on Dakota land. Indigenous foodways were largely absent from the city's published restaurants until Sean Sherman, Oglala Lakota, opened Owamni on the Mississippi at Mill District in 2021. The kitchen runs a strict no-Old-World-ingredient program: no wheat, no dairy, no sugarcane, no chicken or pork. Bison, salmon, manoomin, sumac and tepary beans replace the European pantry. Owamni won the James Beard Best New Restaurant award in 2022. Manoomin is harvested by Anishinaabe families on lakes north of Mille Lacs each September, parched over wood smoke, then shipped statewide.
Tip from the editors. Real Minnesota manoomin cooks in half the time of paddy-grown wild rice and stays chewy rather than mushy; do not over-soak it or it will split.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Sean Sherman's Owamni at Water Works Park runs the country's pre-eminent Indigenous tasting kitchen in Minneapolis since 2021. Beard Best New Restaurant 2022.
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