Cassoeula is Milan's winter braise: pork ribs, sausage and odd cuts (cotenna, foot) slow-cooked with savoy cabbage, onion, carrot and celery for three hours. The defining Lombard Sunday lunch of the cold months.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
The cassoeula is first recorded in 16th-century Lombard farming manuscripts as a peasant November-to-February dish using the parts of the pig left after the main butchery: ribs, sausages, rind (cotenna), foot, ear. The slow braise with savoy cabbage (verza) is the canonical Milanese form, distinct from the Spanish ancestor cassola the dish takes its name from. The dish is served only between November (after the first frost, which sweetens the cabbage) and February. Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, Antica Trattoria della Pesa and Trattoria del Nuovo Macello serve canonical versions; Ratana modernises it with house-made luganega.
Tip from the editors. The cabbage must go in after the first 90 minutes of braising. Cabbage added too early disintegrates; added too late stays crisp.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Trattoria Masuelli San Marco in Milan's Porta Romana has cooked the Lombard canon since 1921, family-run by the Masuelli family for four generations.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Ossobuco, Cassoeula
Order: The risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.
Tip: Bookings open ten days ahead by phone. Cash and card; the wine list runs deep on Lombard producers.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. The risotto giallo and cotoletta al
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Ossobuco
Order: The risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.
Tip: Bookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.
Ratana in Milan's Isola district is Cesare Battisti's modern Lombard kitchen, housed in a 19th-century railway building since 2009. The risotto giallo and cotoletta
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Ossobuco
Order: The risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. Lunch sittings 12:30 and 14:00; dinner from 19:30. The garden is the spot in summer.
Antica Trattoria della Pesa in Milan's Porta Garibaldi has cooked the Lombard farmstead canon since 1880, in the old grain-weighing house at the city's northern cust
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Ossobuco, Cassoeula
Order: The risotto alla milanese, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The dining room has the original 1880 wood-panel interior; ask for a table by the window.
Trippa in Milan's Porta Romana is Diego Rossi's offal-led trattoria, opened 2015 with cucina povera reimagined. The vitello tonnato and trippa-Florentine still ancho
Signature: Vitello tonnato, Trippa alla fiorentina, Mondeghili
Order: The vitello tonnato, the trippa alla fiorentina and the mondeghili Milanese meatballs.
Tip: Bookings open 60 days ahead on the website; sells out within hours. Walk-up bar seats open at 19:30 for early birds.
More cities are in research. Want cassoeula covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.