History

Bresaola has been produced in the Lombard Alpine valley of Valtellina since at least the 15th century, with PGI (IGP) status established in 1996. The cold, dry Alpine air at 600 to 900 m of elevation is the natural drying chamber. Milan's Salumeria del Corso, Peck and Eataly all run defensible bresaola counters; the sliced board with olive oil, lemon, rocket and shaved Grana is the city's classic aperitivo opener and a summer first course in fine dining.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 20 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 300g bresaola della Valtellina IGP, sliced paper-thin by the deli counter
  • 100g rocket (arugula) leaves
  • 100g Grana Padano DOP, in one piece (for shaving)
  • 150ml extra virgin olive oil (a Garda or Ligurian DOP)
  • Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp)
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard (optional, for the dressing)
  • Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1 small bunch fresh parsley, chopped
  • Pickled white onions or capers in vinegar, to garnish
  • Country sourdough bread, sliced thick and toasted, to serve
  • 1 bottle Valtellina Rosso (Nebbiolo) or Sciacchetra, chilled

Method

  1. Take the bresaola out of the fridge 15 minutes before serving. Like prosciutto, it tastes flat when cold.
  2. Whisk the olive oil, lemon juice and a small pinch of salt and pepper to a basic vinaigrette. Add a tiny smear of Dijon if you like a thicker emulsion; classic Milan goes without.
  3. Lay the bresaola slices flat across a large white serving plate or a wooden board in a single layer, slightly overlapping. Do not stack; the slices stick.
  4. Drizzle the bresaola lightly with the vinaigrette, just enough to gloss each slice.
  5. Scatter the rocket leaves in handfuls across the bresaola.
  6. Shave Grana Padano over the top in long curls with a vegetable peeler; use a generous hand.
  7. Drizzle one more pass of vinaigrette and finish with cracked black pepper and chopped parsley.
  8. Add pickled onions or capers around the edges for sharpness.
  9. Serve immediately with toasted bread, cold Valtellina Rosso poured into stemmed glasses on the side.

Tip from the editors. Buy bresaola sliced very thin at the counter and eat the same day; pre-packed slices oxidise. Avoid US supermarket 'bresaola' not from Valtellina.

Where to eat bresaola della valtellina

Bresaola della Valtellina in Milan

Trippa ★ 4.8

Italian€€€porta-romana

Trippa in Milan's Porta Romana is Diego Rossi's offal-led trattoria, opened 2015 with cucina povera reimagined. Kitchen leans modern italian, offal.

Signature: Vitello tonnato, Trippa alla fiorentina, Mondeghili

Order: The vitello tonnato, the trippa alla fiorentina and the mondeghili Milanese meatballs.

Tip: Bookings open 60 days ahead on the website; sells out within hours. Walk-up bar seats open at 19:30 for early birds.

Via Giorgio Vasari 1, 20135 Milano Book →

Antica Trattoria della Pesa ★ 4.2

Lombard Trattoria€€€isola

Antica Trattoria della Pesa in Milan's Porta Garibaldi has cooked the Lombard farmstead canon since 1880, set in the old grain-weighing house.

Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Ossobuco, Cassoeula

Order: The risotto alla milanese, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.

Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The dining room has the original 1880 wood-panel interior; ask for a table by the window.

Viale Pasubio 10, 20154 Milano Book →

Boeucc ★ 4.0

Lombard, Classical Italian€€€€centro-storico

Boeucc in Milan dates from 1696 and is the city's oldest dining room, now at Corso Monforte near the Quadrilatero. Located in Centro Storico.

Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Tortelli di zucca

Order: Risotto alla milanese, the bone-in cotoletta, then tortelli di zucca from Mantua.

Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The dining room has the original Boeucc 18th-century vaulted ceiling; ask for a table in the main room.

Corso Monforte 16, 20122 Milano

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