History

Boudin came to South Louisiana with French Acadian (Cajun) settlers in the 18th century, and the rice-bound version (as distinct from the smooth French boudin blanc) is the unique Cajun adaptation. The boucherie tradition (community pig-butchering and sausage-making) anchored Cajun food culture across the prairie parishes through the 20th century. Cochon Butcher (Donald Link's Warehouse District butcher counter) brought the dish onto New Orleans menus from 2010; Cochon Restaurant and Mosquito Supper Club both run their own house links. The Boudin Trail along Highway 90 west of the city is the canonical pilgrimage; New Orleans counters now match the prairie versions in quality.

Common allergens: Pork

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 1 hr 30 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 3 lb (1.4kg) pork shoulder, cut into 4cm cubes
  • 1 lb (450g) pork liver, cut into 4cm cubes
  • 1 large onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 green bell pepper, roughly chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
  • 8 garlic cloves
  • 4 cups (1L) chicken stock
  • 1.5 cups (300g) long-grain white rice
  • 3 tbsp Cajun seasoning (paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, thyme, cayenne, white and black pepper, salt)
  • 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 bunch spring onions, sliced
  • 10 feet (3m) of natural hog casings, soaked in cold water for 1 hour and flushed

Method

  1. Combine pork shoulder, pork liver, onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic and chicken stock in a heavy pot. Simmer covered for 90 minutes until the meat is fork-tender.
  2. Lift the meat and vegetables out with a slotted spoon. Reserve the cooking liquid.
  3. Cook the rice in 3 cups (700ml) of the reserved cooking liquid until tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Set aside.
  4. Pass the meat and vegetables through a coarse grinding plate (or pulse in a food processor; the texture should be coarse, not smooth).
  5. Combine the ground meat, cooked rice, Cajun seasoning, parsley and spring onions in a large bowl. Add 1 cup (250ml) of the reserved cooking liquid; mix until cohesive but not sloppy. Adjust seasoning aggressively (boudin should taste strongly seasoned).
  6. Fit a sausage stuffer with the soaked hog casings. Pipe the mixture into the casings, twisting every 15cm into links.
  7. Steam the links over simmering water for 25 to 30 minutes until heated through and the casing is taut.
  8. Eat the links straight from the steamer; squeeze the rice mixture out of the casing with your teeth, the way every Cajun butcher counter has taught for a century.

Tip from the editors. No stuffer or casings? Roll into golf-ball boudin balls, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, deep-fry at 175C / 350F for 3 minutes; the Cochon Butcher lunch form.

Where to eat boudin

Boudin in New Orleans

Cochon Butcher ★ 4.5

Sandwich$$warehouse-district

Cochon Butcher in New Orleans is the Donald Link sandwich counter and butcher case beside Cochon, with a muffuletta and Le Pig Mac that have outsold.

Signature: Muffuletta, Le Pig Mac

Order: The muffuletta with the house olive salad. Add the Le Pig Mac.

Tip: Lunchtime is queued; come at 11:00 or after 14:00. Same kitchen as Cochon, faster turn.

930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130 Book →

Cochon ★ 4.5

Cajun$$$warehouse-district

Cochon in New Orleans is Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski's James Beard winning Cajun room on Tchoupitoulas, an ode to whole-hog cookery in a converted.

Signature: Louisiana cochon with cracklins, Wood-fired oysters

Order: The cochon with turnips and cracklins. Then the rabbit and dumplings.

Tip: Cochon Butcher around the corner sells the same charcuterie at a counter; cheaper and equally good for lunch.

930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130 Book →

More cities are in research. Want boudin covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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