Bola de Berlim
Photo: mapa mundi · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Bola de Berlim arrived in Portugal with German and central European refugees fleeing the 1930s and 1940s, who adapted the Berliner doughnut tradition to Portuguese tastes by adding the well-known creme de ovos (egg-yolk custard) filling. Braga's Catholic pastry tradition produced exceptional egg-yolk-cream versions; Frigideiras do Cantinho and Docaria São Vicente bake them daily. The dish is a Portuguese beach-boardwalk classic in summer and a year-round pastelaria staple in Braga.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the dough: 500g strong white flour
  • 10g instant dried yeast
  • 80g caster sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 200ml warm whole milk
  • 3 large eggs
  • 80g unsalted butter softened
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 1L vegetable oil for frying (sunflower or peanut)
  • 150g caster sugar for rolling
  • For the creme de ovos filling: 8 egg yolks
  • 250g caster sugar
  • 200ml water
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • Icing sugar to dust

Method

  1. Make the creme de ovos first: combine sugar, water, cinnamon stick and lemon zest in a heavy pan. Bring to a simmer and cook 5 minutes until the syrup reaches 110C on a thermometer. Remove the cinnamon and zest.
  2. Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Pour the hot syrup in a thin stream into the yolks, whisking constantly.
  3. Return the mixture to the pan over very low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 10 to 15 minutes until thick enough to coat the spoon. Do not boil.
  4. Whisk in the butter. Cool, covered with cling film touching the surface.
  5. Make the dough: combine flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add warm milk, eggs, soft butter and lemon zest. Knead 10 minutes to a smooth elastic dough.
  6. Cover and prove 1.5 hours until doubled.
  7. Knock back. Divide into 12 balls (around 75g each). Round each tightly.
  8. Place on floured trays, cover, and prove 45 minutes more until puffy.
  9. Heat the oil to 170C in a deep heavy pan.
  10. Fry the bolas in batches of 4, 90 seconds per side, until deep golden. Do not overcrowd; this drops the oil temperature.
  11. Lift to paper towels. While still warm, roll generously in caster sugar.
  12. Cool slightly, then slit each bola horizontally three-quarters of the way through.
  13. Pipe or spoon generous tablespoons of creme de ovos into each slit until the filling visibly bulges out.
  14. Dust the tops with icing sugar.

Tip from the editors. The creme de ovos is the dish; commercial whipped-cream-filled bolas are not the same. Make the cream first and chill it; warm cream melts the sugar coating.

Where to eat bola de berlim

Bola de Berlim in Braga

Frigideiras do Cantinho ★ 4.8

€ PortugueseCentro Historico

Braga's most famous street bite: a fried puff-pastry pocket of egg-yolk custard cream, made here continuously since 1796 for under €2 per piece.

OrderFrigideira with a galão at the counter for the most honest €2.50 in Braga.

TipEat immediately outside on the steps for the optimal temperature. One frigideira, one tíbia and one sameirinho is the full three-pastry tasting for under €5.

Directions

Frigideiras da Sé ★ 4.2

€ Street food

A second specialist for Braga's frigideira tradition in the cathedral quarter, often quieter than the Cantinho original with the same full pastry range.

TipWalk here from the cathedral on a weekday morning when the Cantinho queue is longest. Same pastry, five minutes less waiting.

Directions

Docaria São Vicente ★ 4.5

€€ BakerySão Vicente

Founded in 1829, the oldest food specialist in Braga sells conventual sweets unavailable elsewhere: moletinhos, fidalguinhos and massapães made to order.

Why locals goFounded in 1829 in the São Vicente quarter, known to pastry specialists but absent from most tourist guides and with no delivery or social media.

TipPre-order a 24-piece mixed gift box 24 hours ahead for the full range. Walk-in buyers get what's left from daily production, usually by midday.

Directions

Coretto Cafe e Tortaria ★ 4.1

€€ EUR 4-9BrunchNeighbourhood cake shop with fresh tortas, charcuterie boards and weekend cake brunchMaximinos

A neighbourhood cake shop in the university district: fresh tortas and cream cakes that change daily, charcuterie boards, baked in-house at prices.

OrderTorta de laranja (orange roll cake) and espresso in the afternoon

TipArrive mid-afternoon when fresh daily tortas are at their best. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Directions

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