History

Birria originated in Jalisco, where the term was first used in the 19th century for meats cooked in a pit or earth oven. Cuban scholar Felix Ramos y Duarte documented the term in 1898 as goat barbacoa, and historian Leovigildo Islas Escarcega confirmed its Jaliscan origin in 1945. The Nueve Esquinas plaza area of Centro Historico has been the canonical Guadalajara birria district for generations; Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas joined the row in 1986. In 1950 Guadalupe Zarate introduced beef birria with consome in Tijuana, and the quesabirria fusion exploded in North America in the 2010s.

Common allergens: Wheat (tortilla)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 1 hrTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 2 kg goat shoulder, bone-in (or lamb shoulder), cut for stewing
  • 6 guajillo chiles, seeded
  • 4 ancho chiles, seeded
  • 2 chiles de arbol, seeded
  • 1 large white onion, halved
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 2 medium tomatoes
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 3 cloves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 tbsp white vinegar
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • 2 L water or stock
  • Corn tortillas, chopped onion and cilantro, lime wedges for serving

Method

  1. Toast the chiles on a dry comal until pliable, about 30 seconds per side, then soak in hot water 20 minutes.
  2. Char the onion, garlic and tomatoes on the comal until blistered.
  3. Blend the soaked chiles with the onion, garlic, tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, cloves and vinegar into a smooth adobo.
  4. Season the meat with salt and pepper, rub with the adobo and marinate covered at least 2 hours (overnight is better).
  5. Place the meat with all the marinade in a heavy pot, add the bay leaf and pour over the water or stock.
  6. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook 3 hours over low heat until the meat is falling off the bone.
  7. Strain the consome into a separate pot, skim the fat, season to taste with salt.
  8. Shred the meat and serve in deep bowls with the consome, chopped onion, cilantro, lime and warm tortillas.

Tip from the editors. Tortillas can be dipped in the rendered fat from the consome and griddled for tacos de birria, the way Karne Garibaldi serves them.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat birria

Birria in Guadalajara

More cities are in research. Want birria covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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