History
Birria originated in Jalisco, where the term was first used in the 19th century for meats cooked in a pit or earth oven. Cuban scholar Felix Ramos y Duarte documented the term in 1898 as goat barbacoa, and historian Leovigildo Islas Escarcega confirmed its Jaliscan origin in 1945. The Nueve Esquinas plaza area of Centro Historico has been the canonical Guadalajara birria district for generations; Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas joined the row in 1986. In 1950 Guadalupe Zarate introduced beef birria with consome in Tijuana, and the quesabirria fusion exploded in North America in the 2010s.
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Common allergens: Wheat (tortilla)
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 2 kg goat shoulder, bone-in (or lamb shoulder), cut for stewing
- 6 guajillo chiles, seeded
- 4 ancho chiles, seeded
- 2 chiles de arbol, seeded
- 1 large white onion, halved
- 6 garlic cloves
- 2 medium tomatoes
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 cloves
- 1 bay leaf
- 3 tbsp white vinegar
- Sea salt and black pepper
- 2 L water or stock
- Corn tortillas, chopped onion and cilantro, lime wedges for serving
Method
- Toast the chiles on a dry comal until pliable, about 30 seconds per side, then soak in hot water 20 minutes.
- Char the onion, garlic and tomatoes on the comal until blistered.
- Blend the soaked chiles with the onion, garlic, tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, cloves and vinegar into a smooth adobo.
- Season the meat with salt and pepper, rub with the adobo and marinate covered at least 2 hours (overnight is better).
- Place the meat with all the marinade in a heavy pot, add the bay leaf and pour over the water or stock.
- Bring to a simmer, cover and cook 3 hours over low heat until the meat is falling off the bone.
- Strain the consome into a separate pot, skim the fat, season to taste with salt.
- Shred the meat and serve in deep bowls with the consome, chopped onion, cilantro, lime and warm tortillas.
Tip from the editors. Tortillas can be dipped in the rendered fat from the consome and griddled for tacos de birria, the way Karne Garibaldi serves them.
Where to eat birria
Birria in Guadalajara
Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas ★ 4.4
Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas in Guadalajara is the Calle Colon goat-birria stand in the Nueve Esquinas district, a Tapatio favourite for a 150-peso birria plate.
TryBirria de chivo
Birrieria El Chololo ★ 4.2
Birrieria El Chololo in Guadalajara is the Avenida Patria birria stop, a Tapatio favourite for the goat-birria plate under 180 pesos with consome.
TryBirria
Casa Fuerte ★ 4.2
Casa Fuerte on Calle Independencia in Tlaquepaque is the courtyard room in a 19th-century mansion, a Guadalajara metro classic for traditional Tapatio plates.
SignatureBirria, Chiles en nogada, Sopa tarasca
El Parian ★ 4.0
El Parian in Tlaquepaque is the historic arches plaza on Calle Madero, the largest cantina in Mexico with mariachi music, tequila flights and Jalisco plates.
SignatureBirria, Tequila flight, Carnitas
More cities are in research. Want birria covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.