History

Benne is the Gullah-Geechee word for sesame, brought from West Africa with enslaved Africans in the 17th century. The seed grew well in Carolina soil and became a staple of Sea Island cookery. Benne wafers are documented in Charleston Receipts (1950), the Junior League's still-in-print cookbook compiled by 11 Charleston women. The cookie became a tearoom and confectionery staple by the mid-20th century; tins of benne wafers are now the city's most-shipped edible souvenir. Charleston Receipts remains in print at the City Market and most bookshops.

Common allergens: Gluten, Sesame, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 60Hands-on 25 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 120g sesame seeds (benne seeds, ideally raw)
  • 120g unsalted butter, softened
  • 200g light brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 60g plain flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt

Method

  1. Heat oven to 175C (350F). Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and pale golden. Cool.
  2. Beat butter and brown sugar together until pale and creamy, 3 minutes.
  3. Beat in the egg and vanilla.
  4. Whisk flour, baking powder and salt; fold into the butter mixture.
  5. Stir in the toasted seeds.
  6. Drop small half-teaspoons of batter onto parchment-lined trays, well spaced; they spread thin and wide.
  7. Bake 7 to 9 minutes until edges are deep brown. Cool on the tray; they crisp as they cool.

Tip from the editors. Toast the seeds properly; raw benne in a cold pan tastes grassy. Pull the trays at deep amber; pale wafers are chewy not crisp.

Where to eat benne wafers

Benne wafers in Charleston

Charleston City Market ★ 3.8

Market$downtownDaily 09:30-17:30 (plus Fri/Sat night 18:30-22:30)

Charleston City Market runs daily inside four open-air sheds on Meeting Street since 1804. Open daily 09:30-17:30 (plus fri/sat night 18:30-22:30).

Tip: Night market Friday and Saturday adds craft vendors. Sweetgrass-basket prices run $30 and up.

Sugar Bakeshop ★ 4.0

Bakery$upper-kingMon-Sat 10:00-17:00Walk-in onlySmall-batch cupcakes and cookies

Sugar Bakeshop in Charleston bakes small-batch cupcakes, cookies and custom cakes from a Cannon Street counter since 2007. Located in Upper King.

Tip: Specials sell out by mid-afternoon; arrive before 14:00 for the daily cupcake. Closed Sundays.

Worth the queue: Lady Baltimore cupcake

Benne wafers in Savannah

Byrd Cookie Company ★ 4.4

Bakery$historic-districtMon-Fri 09:00-17:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00Walk-in onlyCookies (benne, key lime, butter)

Byrd has baked cookies in Savannah since 1924; the Waters Avenue flagship is a retail-tasting shop with the bake floor visible behind glass. Benne signature.

Worth the queue: Benne wafers, key lime cooler cookies

Savannah's Candy Kitchen ★ 4.4

Street food$historic-districtDaily 10:00-20:00

Walk-up praline counter on River Street, with cooks pulling pralines in copper kettles behind the front window. Saltwater taffy, fudge and chocolates inside.

Try: Pecan pralines pulled in the front window

Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room ★ 4.7

Soul food$historic-districtMon-Fri 11:00-14:00

Mrs. Wilkes has run from a Jones Street basement since 1943, $35 communal Southern home cooking at ten-person tables. Sweet potato souffle, cash or check.

Try: Communal-table Southern lunch

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