History

Aukstā zupa is the Latvian sibling of Lithuanian šaltibarščiai and Polish chłodnik, all derived from a shared Eastern European peasant tradition of cold dairy-and-beet soups served through the short Baltic summer. The dish appears on Latvian tables from late May through August. Every grandmother has her own ratio of kefir to buttermilk to sour cream; the canonical Latvian version leans hard on kefir for tang. Lido and similar counters serve it alongside boiled potatoes in summer.

Common allergens: Eggs, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g cooked beetroot, peeled and coarsely grated
  • 1 litre kefir
  • 200ml buttermilk
  • 100g sour cream
  • 1 medium cucumber, finely diced
  • 4 hard-boiled eggs, halved
  • Large bunch fresh dill, chopped
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • Sea salt, white pepper
  • Boiled new potatoes, to serve

Method

  1. Combine the kefir, buttermilk and sour cream in a large bowl, whisking until smooth.
  2. Add the grated cooked beetroot and stir to combine; the soup will turn bright pink.
  3. Fold in the diced cucumber and most of the chopped dill, reserving some for garnish.
  4. Season with lemon juice, sea salt and white pepper. Chill for 30 minutes before serving.
  5. Ladle into shallow bowls. Top each with two hard-boiled egg halves and a sprinkle of dill.
  6. Serve cold with a side of warm boiled new potatoes; the temperature contrast is the dish's signature.

Tip from the editors. Use raw grated beetroot if you prefer a sharper, more rustic version; the Lithuanian tradition uses raw, the Latvian usually cooked.

Where to eat aukstā zupa (latvian cold beet soup)

Aukstā zupa (Latvian cold beet soup) in Riga

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.

Try: Latvian buffet plates

Tip: Pay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.

Krasta iela 76, Rīga, LV-1019

LIDO Vērmanītis ★ 3.9

Lithuanian€centrsDaily 10:00-22:00

LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.

Try: Latvian counter plates

Tip: Weekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.

Elizabetes iela 65, Rīga, LV-1050

Pētergailis ★ 4.2

Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaDaily 12:00-24:00

Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.

Signature: Pelēkie zirņi (grey peas), Roasted Latvian pork, Karbonāde

Order: The grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.

Tip: Named for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.

Skārņu iela 25, Rīga, LV-1050 Book →

Milda ★ 4.5

Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaTue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon

Milda on Grēcinieku in Old Town holds a Bib Gourmand for great-value traditional Latvian and Lithuanian cooking, named for the figure atop the Freedom.

Signature: Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon), Pelmeni (Latvian meat dumplings), Cepelinai (Lithuanian potato dumplings)

Order: Grey peas with bacon and sour cream, the national dish, served generously.

Tip: Booked solid for Sunday lunch; weekday lunches are an easier sit. The wine list is short but well-chosen for Baltic food.

Grēcinieku iela 26, Rīga, LV-1050 Book →

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