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Riga: Central Market Latvian Food Tour with 20 taste samples
Learn about Latvian gastronomy in the largest open-air market in Europe. Sample a selection of 20 traditional local food samples as you learn about...
A bright pink summer soup of grated beetroot, kefir, cucumber and dill, served cold with halved hard-boiled eggs and a side of boiled potatoes.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.

Aukstā zupa is the Latvian sibling of Lithuanian šaltibarščiai and Polish chłodnik, all derived from a shared Eastern European peasant tradition of cold dairy-and-beet soups served through the short Baltic summer. The dish appears on Latvian tables from late May through August. Every grandmother has her own ratio of kefir to buttermilk to sour cream; the canonical Latvian version leans hard on kefir for tang. Lido and similar counters serve it alongside boiled potatoes in summer.
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Common allergens: Eggs, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Use raw grated beetroot if you prefer a sharper, more rustic version; the Lithuanian tradition uses raw, the Latvian usually cooked.
LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.
TryLatvian buffet plates
TipPay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.
LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.
TryLatvian counter plates
TipWeekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.
Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.
OrderThe grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.
TipNamed for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.
Milda on Grēcinieku in Old Town holds a Bib Gourmand for great-value traditional Latvian and Lithuanian cooking, named for the figure atop the Freedom.
OrderGrey peas with bacon and sour cream, the national dish, served generously.
TipBooked solid for Sunday lunch; weekday lunches are an easier sit. The wine list is short but well-chosen for Baltic food.
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