History

Arroz negro emerged in the Cabanyal fishing quarter, where cuttlefish ink was a free flavouring from the daily catch. The rice takes on the dramatic black colour from the ink, with the cuttlefish chopped through the rice. The dish became canonical across Valencia and the Catalan coast, served at La Riua and most Valencian rice kitchens. The allioli on the side cuts the richness of the ink.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Egg (allioli)

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g bomba rice
  • 500g cuttlefish or squid, cleaned and chopped, ink sacs reserved
  • 1 large ripe tomato, grated
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
  • 4 sachets of squid ink, around 16g total
  • 1.2 litres hot fish stock
  • 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt
  • Allioli, to serve

Method

  1. Heat the olive oil in a 40 cm paella pan over high heat. Fry the cuttlefish for 4 minutes; remove.
  2. Add the chopped garlic and the grated tomato to the same pan; reduce for 3 minutes.
  3. Stir in the paprika off the heat for 10 seconds.
  4. Pour in the hot fish stock and the squid ink (and the reserved ink sacs). Bring to a hard boil.
  5. Add the rice in a cross across the pan. Season with salt. Return the cuttlefish to the pan.
  6. Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, then lower heat for 8 more minutes.
  7. Rest for 5 minutes covered. Serve with allioli on the side.

Tip from the editors. Use real squid ink sachets (or the ink sacs from fresh cuttlefish). The colour is the headline; aim for jet-black not grey.

Where to eat arroz negro

Arroz negro in Valencia

La Riua ★ 4.4

Valencian Rice€€ciutat-vellaTue-Sat 14:00-16:00, Tue-Sat 21:00-23:00

La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas.

Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua

Order: The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.

C/ del Mar, 27, Valencia Book →

Casa Roberto ★ 4.5

Valencian Rice€€leixampleTue-Sat 13:15-16:00, Tue-Sat 20:30-23:00, Sun 13:15-16:00

Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record.

Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Croquetas

Order: The paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.

Tip: Closed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.

Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo, 19, 46005 Valencia Book →

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