History
Arroz negro emerged in the Cabanyal fishing quarter, where cuttlefish ink was a free flavouring from the daily catch. The rice takes on the dramatic black colour from the ink, with the cuttlefish chopped through the rice. The dish became canonical across Valencia and the Catalan coast, served at La Riua and most Valencian rice kitchens. The allioli on the side cuts the richness of the ink.
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Common allergens: Shellfish, Egg (allioli)
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g bomba rice
- 500g cuttlefish or squid, cleaned and chopped, ink sacs reserved
- 1 large ripe tomato, grated
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 4 sachets of squid ink, around 16g total
- 1.2 litres hot fish stock
- 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
- Sea salt
- Allioli, to serve
Method
- Heat the olive oil in a 40 cm paella pan over high heat. Fry the cuttlefish for 4 minutes; remove.
- Add the chopped garlic and the grated tomato to the same pan; reduce for 3 minutes.
- Stir in the paprika off the heat for 10 seconds.
- Pour in the hot fish stock and the squid ink (and the reserved ink sacs). Bring to a hard boil.
- Add the rice in a cross across the pan. Season with salt. Return the cuttlefish to the pan.
- Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, then lower heat for 8 more minutes.
- Rest for 5 minutes covered. Serve with allioli on the side.
Tip from the editors. Use real squid ink sachets (or the ink sacs from fresh cuttlefish). The colour is the headline; aim for jet-black not grey.
Where to eat arroz negro
Arroz negro in Valencia
La Riua ★ 4.4
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas.
OrderThe paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.
Casa Roberto ★ 4.5
Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record.
OrderThe paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.
TipClosed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.
More places near La Riua and Casa Roberto
Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.
- Fraula Tasting menu, about 250 m away
- Flores Raras (formerly El Poblet) Mediterranean, about 250 m away
- Vuelve Carolina Modern Spanish, about 250 m away
- Horchateria Daniel Street food, about 250 m away
- Habitual by Ricard Camarena Mediterranean, about 250 m away
- Federal Cafe Valencia Brunch, about 400 m away
More cities are in research. Want arroz negro covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.