The places in Houston the guidebooks miss.
The places in Houston the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
Himalaya Restaurant in Houston is Kaiser Lashkari's Pakistani-Indian Hillcroft strip-mall kitchen, a James Beard semifinalist room hiding in a freeway.
OrderLamb biryani slow-cooked dum, hunter's beef.
Why locals goA Pakistani strip-mall room on the Southwest Freeway, with chef Kaiser Lashkari running the most precise biryani in Texas since 2004.
TipOrder the slow-cooked dum lamb biryani and hunter's beef. BYOB; corner liquor store across Hillcroft is the run.
Crawfish and Noodles in Houston is Trong Nguyen's Bellaire Boulevard Viet-Cajun crawfish room since 2008, a James Beard semifinalist. At 11360 Bellaire Blvd.
OrderCrawfish in lemongrass garlic butter sauce. Blue crab off-season.
Why locals goA Bellaire Boulevard strip-mall Vietnamese kitchen that serves the country's defining Viet-Cajun crawfish, unknown to most national lists.
TipCrawfish only in season (late February to early June). Off-season the kitchen pivots to blue crab and Dungeness; both are worth ordering.
Phat Eatery in Katy (west of Houston) is the late Alex Au-Yeung's Malaysian street food kitchen, a James Beard semifinalist room hidden 30 miles west.
OrderBeef rendang, roti canai with curry chicken dip, char kway teow.
Why locals goA Malaysian street food kitchen in a Katy strip mall 30 miles from downtown Houston, with rendang and roti canai most lists miss.
TipCombine the trip with H Mart and Asian Town. Lunch is quieter than dinner.
Tacos Tierra Caliente in Houston is the West Alabama Montrose taco truck, with al pastor from a real trompo and an after-hours chef-crowd reputation.
OrderThree al pastor with pineapple. Carne asada with consomme.
Why locals goA taco truck parked next to a Montrose ice house that draws the city's chef crowd at 3am for al pastor from a real trompo.
TipLate at night the line moves fast; the al pastor trompo is still spinning at midnight. Bring tacos into the ice house.
Shri Balaji Bhavan in Houston is the Hillcroft South Indian vegetarian counter serving masala dosa, idli and vada in a no-frills strip-mall room.
OrderMasala dosa with coconut chutney. Vada-sambar.
Why locals goA vegetarian South Indian counter on Hillcroft Avenue serving the city's most precise masala dosa under $13, no English signage out front.
TipOrder the masala dosa and vada-sambar combo. Cash and card; the lunch buffet on weekdays is the value.
Koffeteria in Houston is Vanarin Kuch's EaDo pastry shop on Hutchins, with the beef pho kolache, pistachio baklava croissant and a Top Chef alumna.
OrderBeef pho kolache. Pistachio baklava croissant.
Why locals goAn EaDo pastry shop on Hutchins Street with the beef pho kolache and Hot Cheeto croissants that won 2024 Houston Pastry Chef of the Year.
TipGet there by 9am Saturday for the full case. Closes at 2pm Mon, Wed-Sun, closed Tuesday.
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