Downriver creative neighbourhood of shotgun houses and warehouses. Saint-Germain, Bacchanal Wine, N7, Turkey and the Wolf, Elizabeth's: the city's most interesting modern rooms.
Saint-Germain in New Orleans is the Michelin-starred ten-course tasting menu inside a Bywater double-shotgun from chefs Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith, with a natural-wine garden behind.
Signature: Ten-course tasting, Open-flame squab
Order: There is no choice; the ten-course is what they serve. Add the wine pairing.
Tip: Reservations open monthly. If you can't get a seat, the wine garden out back takes walk-ups and serves bottles with snacks.
N7 in New Orleans is the Bywater French wine bar behind an unmarked fence on Montegut Street from Aaron Walker and Yuki Yamaguchi, with French bistro plates and a Japanese accent.
Signature: Tinned-fish plate, Steak frites with Bordelaise
Order: The tinned-fish board with bread, then steak frites with Bordelaise.
Tip: Reservations are tight; the garden seating opens at 17:00 and walk-ins land best on weeknights.
Elizabeth's in New Orleans is the Bywater corner cafe at Chartres and Gallier that invented praline bacon, with pecan sugar lacquered slices on a breakfast plate of biscuits and grits.
Signature: Praline bacon, Redneck eggs Benedict
Order: The praline bacon, ordered as a side with the redneck eggs Benedict.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive by 09:00 on weekends or wait an hour for the brunch turn.