The horseshoe harbour at the centre of the city. Fish landed daily at the morning market on Quai des Belges, brasseries on the quay, late terraces at La Caravelle.
Le Trolleybus on the Vieux Port in Marseille's 7e is the 900-capacity vaulted-stone club inside a 17th-century galley arsenal, with three rooms.
Tip: Doors midnight Thu-Sat, busiest from 01:30. Cash or card accepted; the La Marquise room is the easier seating room of the three.
Bar de la Marine on the Quai de Rive Neuve in Marseille's 7e is the 1929 Vieux Port institution that doubled as Marcel Pagnol's Marius bar, with a 1930s.
Tip: Order a mauresque on the terrace at sunset; the back room with the Pagnol fresco is the rainy-night option.