Old salt fish shops and dried seafood traders giving way to izakaya, natural wine bars and Michelin star Japanese counters.
Yardbird in Sheung Wan is Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang's yakitori izakaya with one Michelin star, serving 20 plus skewers from local three yellow chickens over binchotan charcoal.
Signature: Chicken oyster yakitori, KFC (Korean fried cauliflower), Tsukune meatball with egg yolk
Order: Whole Mei Hua chicken yakitori platter, pre order required.
Tip: Order the Mei Hua chicken whole when you book; it sells out by 21:00 and is the kitchen's headline dish.
Lin Heung Kui in Sheung Wan is the sister to the historic Lin Heung Tea House, serving the same trolley pushed dim sum and lotus paste buns from a third floor walk up above Des Voeux Road West.
Signature: Lotus paste filled dim sum, Steamed pork ribs with black bean, Chicken mushroom buns
Order: Trolley dim sum tasting with lotus paste bao and steamed pork ribs.
Tip: Grab a metal stamp ticket as you walk in and chase the trolleys; it is the canonical old school dim sum experience.
TATE Dining Room in Sheung Wan is Vicky Lau's two Michelin star tasting menu room, the first to earn a female chef two stars in Asia, with tasting menus framed as edible odes.
Order: The Ode menu, an ingredient by ingredient tasting.
Tip: The Ode tasting changes every quarter; ask the host which ingredient is leading the menu before you book.
Lin Heung Tea House is Hong Kong's last classic dim sum cart room, reopened in April 2026 at the Tung Ning Building on Des Voeux Road in Sheung Wan after closing its 99-year-old Wellington Street home.
Signature: Lotus seed paste bun, Pork dumplings (siu mai), Chicken and mushroom bun
Order: Lotus seed paste bun and char siu bao straight off the cart.
Tip: Arrive before 09:00 and grab a cart card; aunties roll past with bamboo steamers you stamp to order.
For Kee in Sheung Wan is a classic cha chaan teng on the antiques row of Hollywood Road, plating pork chop rice and macaroni in chicken broth since the early 1960s.
Signature: Pork chop with rice, Macaroni with ham in chicken broth, French toast with condensed milk
Order: Pork chop with rice in tomato sauce.
Tip: Arrive before noon for the seasoned pork chop on rice; afternoon service swaps to baked dishes.
The Cupping Room on Queen's Road Central in Sheung Wan is Hong Kong's most established independent specialty coffee operation, with carefully made filter and a brunch menu attached.
Signature drink: Single origin filter coffee
Tip: Order the V60 single origin off the chalkboard; the roastery on Po Hing Fong serves the latest seasonal lot.
Jenny Bakery in Sheung Wan plates Hong Kong's collectible bear tinned butter cookies, with shortbread, raisin oat and coffee batches that draw a queue from the moment the door rolls up.
Tip: The eight mix tin is the canonical gift; sizes change with the calendar bear design.
Worth the queue: Four mix butter cookies in collectible bear tin
The Cupping Room Roastery on Po Hing Fong in Sheung Wan is the production heart of Hong Kong's most established independent coffee operation, with cuppings and brew flights on rotation.
Tip: Saturdays see weekend roasting demos; ask about the latest competition lot.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Burundi, Kenya
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail, Subscription
Halfway Coffee on Upper Lascar Row in Sheung Wan serves espresso and pour overs in vintage Hong Kong porcelain, with the antiques market street as a backdrop and a small in house roast.
Tip: The cups are the photograph; pick a chair on Upper Lascar Row and stay for an hour.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Kenya
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Brew Bros Coffee on Po Tuck Street in Shek Tong Tsui is a tiny neighbourhood roastery cafe at the western edge of Sheung Wan, with espresso and filter brews from house roasted single origins.
Tip: Walk over from the MTR Sai Ying Pun station; the stretch of Po Tuck Street is quieter than Hollywood Road.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Brazil
How they serve: Espresso, Filter
CORKS Wine & Bar on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan plates Mediterranean snacks alongside small grower European wines, with a long oak bar that runs from a corner of the antiques row.
Signature pour: Italian and French by the glass selection
Wine focus: Old World and small grower wines from Europe
Food: Mediterranean snacks and antipasti
Tip: Walk in alone at 16:30 and take a bar stool; the somm will run you through three glasses to find a pour.
The Cupping Room on Queen's Road Central runs Australian style brunch with single origin filter coffee, the specialty coffee operation's full breakfast service running through to mid afternoon.
Order: Avocado on sourdough with poached egg and a V60.
Tip: Weekday morning is calmest; weekends after 11:00 queue 20 minutes.