Old salt fish shops and dried seafood traders giving way to izakaya, natural wine bars and Michelin star Japanese counters.
Yardbird in Sheung Wan is Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang's yakitori izakaya with one Michelin star, serving 20 plus skewers from local three yellow chickens.
Signature: Chicken oyster yakitori, KFC (Korean fried cauliflower), Tsukune meatball with egg yolk
Order: Whole Mei Hua chicken yakitori platter, pre order required.
Tip: Order the Mei Hua chicken whole when you book; it sells out by 21:00 and is the kitchen's headline dish.
Luk On Kui in Sheung Wan is the 2024 employee takeover of Lin Heung Kui, with the same Cantonese trolley dim sum on the upper floors of the Western Centre.
Signature: Trolley pushed dim sum, Steamed pork ribs with black bean, Lotus paste bao
Order: Trolley dim sum tasting with har gow, siu mai and lotus paste bao.
Tip: Arrive before 09:00 and chase the carts; the har gow and lotus bao trolleys come out first.
TATE Dining Room in Sheung Wan is Vicky Lau's two Michelin star tasting menu room, the first to earn a female chef two stars in Asia, with tasting menus.
Order: The Ode menu, an ingredient by ingredient tasting.
Tip: The Ode tasting changes every quarter; ask the host which ingredient is leading the menu before you book.
Lin Heung Tea House is Hong Kong's last classic dim sum cart room, reopened in April 2026 at the Tung Ning Building on Des Voeux Road in Sheung Wan.
Signature: Lotus seed paste bun, Pork dumplings (siu mai), Chicken and mushroom bun
Order: Lotus seed paste bun and char siu bao straight off the cart.
Tip: Arrive before 09:00 and grab a cart card; aunties roll past with bamboo steamers you stamp to order.
For Kee in Sheung Wan is a classic cha chaan teng on the antiques row of Hollywood Road, plating pork chop rice and macaroni in chicken broth since the early.
Signature: Pork chop with rice, Macaroni with ham in chicken broth, French toast with condensed milk
Order: Pork chop with rice in tomato sauce.
Tip: Arrive before noon for the seasoned pork chop on rice; afternoon service swaps to baked dishes.
Kaffeine on Jervois Street is an industrial chic Sheung Wan cafe with sunny window seats, specialty coffees like honey espresso and Baileys mocha shake.
Signature drink: Honey espresso
Tip: Grab a window seat for the natural light; honey espresso is the house pour and the Grandma Scones go fast.
Jenny Bakery in Sheung Wan plates Hong Kong's collectible bear tinned butter cookies, with shortbread, raisin oat and coffee batches that draw a queue.
Tip: The eight mix tin is the canonical gift; sizes change with the calendar bear design.
Worth the queue: Four mix butter cookies in collectible bear tin
The Cupping Room Roastery on Po Hing Fong in Sheung Wan is the production heart of Hong Kong's most established independent coffee operation.
Tip: Saturdays see weekend roasting demos; ask about the latest competition lot.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Burundi, Kenya
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail, Subscription
Halfway Coffee on Upper Lascar Row in Sheung Wan serves espresso and pour overs in vintage Hong Kong porcelain, with the antiques market street as a backdrop.
Tip: The cups are the photograph; pick a chair on Upper Lascar Row and stay for an hour.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Kenya
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Sense Coffee Roaster on Wing Lok Street in Sheung Wan is a tiny single-origin cafe near MTR Sheung Wan A2, with Ethiopian lots on espresso and pour-over six.
Tip: Order the lighter roast Ethiopia on pour over; the nuttier roast carries the espresso for milk drinks.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Kenya
How they serve: Espresso, Pour over, Whole bean retail
CORKS Wine & Bar on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan plates Mediterranean snacks alongside small grower European wines, with a long oak bar that runs.
Signature pour: Italian and French by the glass selection
Wine focus: Old World and small grower wines from Europe
Food: Mediterranean snacks and antipasti
Tip: Walk in alone at 16:30 and take a bar stool; the somm will run you through three glasses to find a pour.
Kaffeine on Jervois Street feeds the Sheung Wan office crowd with an all day brunch menu of pasta, croissants and the internet famous Grandma Scones.
Order: Grandma Scones with a honey espresso.
Tip: Weekday morning is the office rush; arrive after 14:00 or take the window seat at the weekend.