Tramezzini
Photo: https://www.flickr.com/people/cervus/ (Retouched by AM) · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

The tramezzino was invented in 1926 by Angela Demichelis Nebiolo at Caffè Mulassano in Turin, but the form took hold across Venice in the 1950s and 1960s when bacaro counters stacked the triangles as a walk-in snack alongside cicchetti. The Venetian version is taller and more generously filled than the Turin original; the mayonnaise-bound filling rises 3cm above the bread, giving the sandwich its dome. Cantinone Gia Schiavi (Cantina Schiavi) on the Dorsoduro fondamenta is widely cited as the city's reference (60-plus variations behind the counter); Al Merca and Bacareto Da Lele run rival stacks. Eaten standing, midmorning or aperitivo.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy, Fish

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 20 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 large soft white loaf, sliced thinly (12 slices), crusts cut off (use a square Italian pancarrè or the softest white sandwich loaf you can find)
  • 200g good-quality mayonnaise (homemade or a thick jarred mayonnaise like Hellmann's Real)
  • For tuna and olive filling (4 triangles): 1 (160g) tin tuna in olive oil (drained), 2 tbsp mayonnaise, 4 large green olives (pitted and chopped), 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley, freshly cracked black pepper
  • For prosciutto and artichoke filling (4 triangles): 100g prosciutto cotto (cooked ham, sliced thin)
  • 4 marinated artichoke hearts (in oil, drained, sliced)
  • 2 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • For egg and shrimp filling (4 triangles): 2 hard-boiled eggs (mashed coarsely), 100g cooked small shrimp (chopped), 3 tbsp mayonnaise, 1 tbsp finely chopped capers, juice of half a lemon, salt and pepper

Method

  1. Prepare all three fillings in separate bowls: tuna with mayonnaise, olives, parsley and pepper; prosciutto-and-artichoke spread mixed with mayonnaise and Dijon; egg mashed with shrimp, mayonnaise, capers and lemon.
  2. Spread the slices: lay 12 slices of crustless white bread flat on the bench. Spread 2 tbsp filling generously across each of 6 slices (you want a thick dome of filling, not a thin spread).
  3. Top each filled slice with a second slice of bread; press gently around the edges to seal (the filling should swell out a little at the edges, giving the characteristic Venetian dome).
  4. Cut each sandwich diagonally into 2 triangles. Do not cut the crusts off again; they were removed before assembly.
  5. Arrange the triangles standing up on a wooden board or plate, filling-side facing out so the dome shows.
  6. Cover with cling film or a damp tea towel and rest in the fridge 30 minutes to 2 hours (the resting time lets the filling settle and the bread soften slightly).
  7. Serve cold, three or four triangles per person, with a Spritz Veneziano or an ombra (small glass of Venetian house wine).

Tip from the editors. The filling-to-bread ratio defines the form; 60g per triangle gives the Venetian dome. Soft white sandwich bread is essential; sourdough is wrong. Eat same day.

Where to eat tramezzini

Tramezzini in Venice

Cantinone Gia Schiavi (Cantina Schiavi) ★ 4.6

€€€ Wine bar

Cantinone Gia Schiavi in Venice's Dorsoduro at the foot of Ponte San Trovaso is the De Rossi family bacaro since 1944, with house-made crostini and the canal.

PourSoave Classico and Recioto pours

WineVeneto whites, traditional ombre

FoodHouse-made crostini, polpette

TipEat your crostini standing on the bridge; the bar inside is tiny. Closed Sunday afternoons. Family-run since 1944.

Directions

Al Merca ★ 4.5

€ Italian

Al Merca on Campo Bella Vienna near Rialto is the tiny walk-up bar where the mini panini cost €1.50 and the spritz €3.50, the canonical campo aperitivo.

TrySpritz and mini panino

TipCloses 20:00. No interior space; the crowd stands on the campo. Cash and card accepted.

Directions Book a table

Bacareto Da Lele ★ 4.6

€ Italian

Bacareto Da Lele on Campo dei Tolentini in Venice's Santa Croce is the canonical budget bacaro, with €1 panini and €0.80 ombre served from a window.

TryPanini and ombra

TipCash only. Walk-up window; sit on the Tolentini church steps with your panino and ombra. Closed Sundays.

Directions

Bacaro Jazz ★ 3.7

€€ Wine barUntil Daily 02:00

Bacaro Jazz near the Rialto Bridge in San Marco is the late-running jazz bar open to 02:00 with cicchetti, the canonical post-midnight wine room in San Marco.

TryCicchetti and tapas

TipWalk-in. Tonight's jazz set is on the chalkboard at the door. Touristy but reliably late.

Directions

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