Sarde in saor
Photo: ezioman · CC BY 2.0

History

Sarde in saor traces back to the 14th-century Venetian Republic's spice-trade preservation methods. Sailors needed a way to keep fried fish during long Mediterranean voyages; the sweet-and-sour onion-vinegar marinade pickled the fish and added the raisins and pinenuts that signalled wealth from the Levant trade routes. The dish is on every bacaro counter and every osteria carte to this day; it is to Venice what bouillabaisse is to Marseille. The 14th-century cookbook Libro per cuoco of the Anonimo Veneziano contains the earliest written recipe.

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Common allergens: Fish, Sulphites

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 40 minTotal P1DT40MDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g fresh sardines, gutted and butterflied
  • 500g white onions, sliced thinly
  • 100ml white wine vinegar
  • 50ml white wine
  • 50g pinenuts
  • 50g raisins, soaked in warm water 10 minutes
  • 200ml olive oil for frying
  • Plain flour for dredging
  • Sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Dredge the sardines in seasoned flour, shake off the excess.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan to 180C and fry the sardines 1 minute per side until golden. Drain on paper.
  3. Reduce the heat. Add the sliced onions to the same pan with 4 tablespoons of olive oil and cook 25 minutes until soft and pale gold, not browned.
  4. Add the vinegar and white wine to the onions and reduce 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
  5. Layer half the sardines in a dish, top with half the onions, half the raisins (drained) and half the pinenuts. Repeat to finish.
  6. Cover and refrigerate at least 24 hours. Serve at room temperature on polenta or crostini.

Tip from the editors. The 24-hour rest is non-negotiable; the vinegar needs time to penetrate. Best at 48 hours.

Where to eat sarde in saor

Sarde in saor in Venice

Cantina Do Mori ★ 4.6

€ Italian

Cantina Do Mori in Venice's San Polo near Rialto is the 1462-founded bacaro, with francobolli sandwiches at €1.50 to €3, the cheapest historic-bar meal.

TryFrancobolli sandwiches and ombre

TipCash only. Walk-in. Closed Sundays. The francobolli (postage-stamp-sized sandwiches) are the move; pair with ombre at €1.50.

Osteria All'Arco ★ 4.8

€ Italian

Osteria All'Arco near Rialto in San Polo serves cicchetti at €1.50 to €4 each, the canonical bacari budget meal with francobolli sandwiches and lagoon-fish.

TryCicchetti at the bar

TipSix cicchetti plus two ombre runs roughly €20 to 25 for a full meal. Closes after lunch.

Antiche Carampane ★ 4.6

€€€ ItalianSan Polo

Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu.

OrderSpaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.

TipBook a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.

Trattoria alla Madonna ★ 4.1

€ Italian

Trattoria alla Madonna near Rialto in San Polo is the 1954 lunchroom with two-course Venetian set meals at €18, the canonical mid-budget classic fish.

TryBigoli in salsa with fritto misto

TipWalk-in only. Arrive 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays.

Vini da Gigio ★ 4.5

€€ Italian

Vini da Gigio is lazzari family trattoria on calle stua in cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

Why locals goLazzari family trattoria on Calle Stua in Cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book a week ahead. The wine cellar is the reason; ask Laura Lazzari for pairings.

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