History
Rye thrives in the Finnish climate where wheat struggles, and sour rye bread has been the staple loaf for centuries, once baked as ring-shaped reikäleipä hung from rafters to dry. The dense, tangy crumb defines Finnish bread culture and underpins everything from market-hall sandwiches to the rye crust of the Karelian pie. Bakeries across Helsinki bake it daily.
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Common allergens: Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 200g wholegrain rye flour for the sour starter
- 300ml warm water for the starter
- 400g wholegrain rye flour for the dough
- 250ml warm water for the dough
- 12g salt
- Extra rye flour to shape
Method
- Make a sour: mix 200g rye flour with 300ml warm water, cover and leave at room temperature 12 to 24 hours until bubbly and sour-smelling.
- Mix the sour with the remaining rye flour, water and salt into a sticky, heavy dough.
- Cover and prove 3 to 4 hours until risen and cracked on top.
- Wet your hands, shape into a round on a floured tray and dimple the surface with a fork.
- Bake at 220C for 15 minutes, then 200C for a further 35 to 45 minutes until the loaf sounds hollow; cool fully before slicing.
Tip from the editors. Rye has little gluten, so expect a dense, sticky dough; do not wait for a smooth wheat-style ball.
Where to eat ruisleipä (rye bread)
Ruisleipä (rye bread) in Helsinki
Levain ★ 4.6
Levain helped start Helsinki's bakery boom on long-fermented sourdough and crisp pastel de nata; the Punavuori branch is an all-day bakery and eatery.
Worth the queuePastel de nata custard tart
TipThe crisp pastel de nata is the bake to cross town for. There is a second branch in Töölö on Runeberginkatu.
Way Bakery ★ 4.6
Way Bakery in Kallio opens for Sunday brunch with sourdough toppings, granola and avocado toast, a laid-back natural-wine bakery the neighbourhood adopts.
OrderSourdough with toppings, yogurt with granola, or avocado toast
TipWalk-in only and busy on Sundays, so go early. The natural-wine list is open at brunch if you want a glass with the sourdough.
Old Market Hall (Vanha Kauppahalli) ★ 4.6
The Old Market Hall by the South Harbour opened in 1889 as Helsinki's first indoor hall; stalls sell smoked fish, reindeer, cheeses and salmon soup.
TipSoppakeittiö inside serves the classic lohikeitto salmon soup with unlimited bread. The hall closes by early evening, so come for lunch.
More cities are in research. Want ruisleipä (rye bread) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.