Las Cuatro Milpas ★ 4.6
Las Cuatro Milpas at Mercado del Barrio in Barrio Logan, San Diego, the 1933 Estudillo-family counter back open since May 2026 with its same.
Try: Pork tamales, hand-pressed flour tortillas, rolled tacos
History
Rolled tacos are the signature dish of San Diego's taco-shop genre, born in 1947 at El Indio Mexican on India Street. Founder Ralph Pesqueira Sr. adapted his Sonoran grandmother's flautas recipe for factory workers, calling them taquitos (little tacos). Within a decade the format spread across San Diego's late-night taco-shop chains (Roberto's, Alberto's, Adalberto's, all the -erto's). The defining San Diego touches: deep-fried not pan-crisped, served on a paper plate covered in guacamole and shredded yellow cheese, eaten in threes or fives. El Indio is still in operation on India Street, run by the 4th generation Pesqueira family.
Common allergens: Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 800g beef chuck (or chicken thigh), cut to 5cm chunks
- 1 small onion, halved
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 bay leaf
- Salt and black pepper
- 24 small corn tortillas (10cm; sub flour for tex-mex style)
- 1 to 1.5L neutral oil for deep-frying
- Toothpicks
- To serve: 200g shredded mild yellow cheese (medium cheddar or Monterey Jack); 1 cup fresh guacamole; 1 cup sour cream; 1 cup salsa fresca; shredded iceberg lettuce; 2 limes quartered
Method
- Cover the beef with water in a heavy pot. Add onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, bay leaf and 1 tsp salt.
- Simmer 90 minutes until the beef is fall-apart tender. Drain (reserve broth for soup later).
- Shred the cooked beef with two forks into fine threads. Taste, salt and pepper generously.
- Warm the tortillas in a damp cloth in a steamer or microwave; they must be pliable or they'll crack when rolled.
- Lay a tortilla flat. Place 1 tbsp shredded beef in a line across the centre.
- Roll tightly, pin closed with a toothpick. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
- Heat oil to 180C in a deep heavy pot.
- Fry the rolled tacos 4 to 6 at a time, 3 minutes, until deep golden and audibly crisp. Drain on a rack.
- Remove the toothpicks.
- Plate 3 to 5 taquitos per portion. Smother with guacamole, then drizzle with sour cream, scatter shredded cheese, top with lettuce and salsa.
- Serve immediately with lime wedges and an ice-cold Jarritos.
Tip from the editors. The defining San Diego touch is the cheese-and-guacamole tomb on top; never serve naked with sides. They must be smothered to be San Diego rolled tacos.
Where to eat rolled tacos (taquitos)
Rolled tacos (Taquitos) in San Diego
Lolita's Mexican Food ★ 4.4
Lolita's Mexican Food on Clairemont Mesa Boulevard in Kearny Mesa, San Diego, the California-burrito counter selling the canonical version for under twelve.
Try: California burrito under $12, breakfast burrito $8-10
Lucha Libre Gourmet Taco Shop ★ 4.2
Lucha Libre Gourmet Taco Shop in Mission Hills, San Diego, the wrestling-themed counter on Washington Street where Surfin' California burritos last.
Try: Surfin' California burrito, four-dollar tacos, late-night chips and guac
City Tacos North Park ★ 4.2
City Tacos on University Avenue in North Park, San Diego, the original of the local chain with handmade tortillas and a Camaron Ahogado shrimp taco worth.
Try: Camaron Ahogado shrimp taco, Tinga de Pollo
El Comal ★ 4.2
El Comal in San Diego is the North Park family-owned Mexican kitchen on Illinois Street, a longstanding interior-Mexican counter known for carnitas.
Signature: Carnitas plate, Chilaquiles, Mole Poblano
Order: The carnitas plate with handmade tortillas; weekend chilaquiles before noon.
Tip: Cash on hand speeds the counter; the courtyard patio runs warmer than the indoor room.
Lola 55 ★ 4.5
Lola 55 is modern bib gourmand taqueria tucked into a quiet f street block behind petco park, more reservation-friendly than the bigger names.
Order: Pork belly al pastor, smoked fish taco, mezcal cocktail
Why locals love it: Modern Bib Gourmand taqueria tucked into a quiet F Street block behind Petco Park, more reservation-friendly than the bigger names.
Tip: Sit at the bar for the taco omakase; the brunch menu is the easiest way in without a reservation.
More cities are in research. Want rolled tacos (taquitos) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.