Risi e bisi
Photo: Ilaria22 · CC BY-SA 3.0

History

Risi e bisi is the canonical Venetian Republic dish, traditionally served to the Doge in the Doge's Palace on the Feast of St Mark (25 April) using the first peas of spring. The texture is risotto-but-looser, somewhere between a soup and a risotto, made with the pea pods reduced to a broth (the canonical version uses both pods and peas). It is on the menu at every spring carte from Vini da Gigio to Anice Stellato, and the proverbial Venetian saying goes that it should be ne troppo brodoso ne troppo asciutto (neither too soupy nor too dry).

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Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 10 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 320g Vialone Nano rice
  • 1kg fresh peas in the pod (yields 400g peas and 600g pods)
  • 100g pancetta, diced
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 80g butter
  • 1.5 litres vegetable or light chicken stock
  • 50g grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Chopped parsley to finish
  • Sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Shell the peas. Set the peas aside. Boil the pods 30 minutes in the stock, then puree and strain back into a pan to keep warm.
  2. Sweat the onion and pancetta in 40g butter over low heat 10 minutes until soft.
  3. Add the rice, toast 2 minutes stirring.
  4. Add the peas, stir, then start adding the warm pod broth one ladle at a time, stirring continuously. The texture should stay loose throughout.
  5. Cook 16 to 18 minutes, adding broth as needed. The finished texture should be wet enough to ripple when shaken, looser than a standard risotto.
  6. Off the heat, beat in the remaining 40g butter and the grated Parmigiano. Adjust salt. Finish with chopped parsley.

Tip from the editors. Vialone Nano is the canonical rice; Arborio or Carnaroli work but are starchier and tend toward stiffness.

Where to eat risi e bisi

Risi e bisi in Venice

Vini da Gigio ★ 4.5

€€ Italian

Vini da Gigio is lazzari family trattoria on calle stua in cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

Why locals goLazzari family trattoria on Calle Stua in Cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book a week ahead. The wine cellar is the reason; ask Laura Lazzari for pairings.

Osteria Anice Stellato ★ 4.4

€€ Italian

Osteria Anice Stellato (Italian) in Venice: Book a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.

Why locals goTucked on Fondamenta de la Sensa in far Cannaregio, the canal-side dining room is a 25-minute walk from San Marco that most visitors never reach.

TipBook a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.

Trattoria alla Madonna ★ 4.1

€ Italian

Trattoria alla Madonna near Rialto in San Polo is the 1954 lunchroom with two-course Venetian set meals at €18, the canonical mid-budget classic fish.

TryBigoli in salsa with fritto misto

TipWalk-in only. Arrive 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays.

Osteria alle Testiere ★ 4.7

€€€€ Tasting €80ItalianChef Bruno Gavagnin

Osteria alle Testiere in Castello is the 22-seat lagoon-fish bistro with two seatings per service, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita since 1993.

Book3 weeks ahead

Bistrot de Venise ★ 4.2

€€ EUR 35-80BrunchRenaissance-recipe lunch carte

Bistrot de Venise near San Marco runs the only Renaissance-recipes lunch carte in Venice, with 14th-century Anonimo Veneziano dishes for a fascinating brunch.

OrderRenaissance saor of sole, medieval risi e bisi

TipThe historic-tasting carte needs 48 hours' notice. Lunch service runs 12:00-15:00.

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