Squid rings flash-fried in seasoned flour and tossed with sliced pickled cherry peppers and garlic-butter, served with marinara or lemon; the official Rhode Island state appetizer since 2014.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Rhode Island has long been the largest squid fishery on the US East Coast, with the bulk of the catch landed at the State Pier in Galilee. Federal Hill kitchens turned the local catch into the canonical hot-pepper fried calamari in the 1980s and 1990s. The state legislature designated calamari the official state appetizer on June 12, 2014, beating out clam cakes and stuffies. Almost every Federal Hill Italian-American kitchen runs a version; Andino's, Massimo and Costantino's Venda all serve the Hill standard.
Common allergens: Shellfish (calamari is a mollusc), Gluten
Tip from the editors. Squid turns rubber the second it overcooks; 90 seconds at 190C is the maximum. Buy cleaned squid from a fishmonger, never frozen-pre-floured.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Andino's on Atwells is a Federal Hill stalwart. Veal scaloppine, snail salad and the canonical hot-pepper Rhode Island calamari; Al Fresco patio in summer.
Signature: Veal scaloppine, Snail salad, Rhode Island calamari
Order: Snail salad, RI calamari with cherry peppers, then veal scaloppine.
Tip: Open daily until 21:45 (22:45 Fri-Sat). The Atwells outdoor seats are best on Al Fresco Saturdays from June through early September.
Massimo on Atwells runs contemporary regional Italian under the DeQuattro family. Gluten-free menu, biodynamic wines, marble bar with seats.
Signature: Regional Italian pasta, Biodynamic wines, Branzino
Order: Whatever regional pasta is the special, plus a glass of small-producer Italian red.
Tip: Open Sunday for brunch from 10:30; Monday through Thursday until 21:30, weekends to 22:30.
Costantino's Venda on DePasquale Square pairs the 1938 Italian pasta market with a full restaurant. Hand-pressed ravioli, the fountain patio.
Signature: Hand-pressed ravioli, Pasta of the day, Federal Hill seafood pasta
Order: Whatever ravioli is being run from the downstairs market, with a glass off the Italian list.
Tip: Free live music on the plaza patio nightly through summer; the deli takes pasta to-go.
Cassarino's on Atwells, opened 1988, is the candlelit Federal Hill room locals book midweek. Northern Italian classics, a marble bar, polished service.
Signature: Lobster ravioli, Veal piccata, Tiramisu
Order: Lobster ravioli or veal piccata; close with the house tiramisu.
Tip: Walk-in seats at the bar serve the full menu; book the booths through OpenTable.
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