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Squid rings flash-fried in seasoned flour and tossed with sliced pickled cherry peppers and garlic-butter, served with marinara or lemon; the official Rhode Island state appetizer since 2014.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Rhode Island has long been the largest squid fishery on the US East Coast, with the bulk of the catch landed at the State Pier in Galilee. Federal Hill kitchens turned the local catch into the canonical hot-pepper fried calamari in the 1980s and 1990s. The state legislature designated calamari the official state appetizer on June 12, 2014, beating out clam cakes and stuffies. Almost every Federal Hill Italian-American kitchen runs a version; Andino's, Massimo and Costantino's Venda all serve the Hill standard.
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Visit Vancouver's Granville Island Public Market. Sample fine foods from independent farmers and food artisans from the city and surrounding area.
Common allergens: Shellfish (calamari is a mollusc), Gluten
Tip from the editors. Squid turns rubber the second it overcooks; 90 seconds at 190C is the maximum. Buy cleaned squid from a fishmonger, never frozen-pre-floured.
Andino's on Atwells is a Federal Hill stalwart. Veal scaloppine, snail salad and the canonical hot-pepper Rhode Island calamari; Al Fresco patio in summer.
OrderSnail salad, RI calamari with cherry peppers, then veal scaloppine.
TipOpen daily until 21:45 (22:45 Fri-Sat). The Atwells outdoor seats are best on Al Fresco Saturdays from June through early September.
Massimo on Atwells runs contemporary regional Italian under the DeQuattro family. Gluten-free menu, biodynamic wines, marble bar with seats.
OrderWhatever regional pasta is the special, plus a glass of small-producer Italian red.
TipOpen Sunday for brunch from 10:30; Monday through Thursday until 21:30, weekends to 22:30.
Costantino's Venda on DePasquale Square pairs the 1938 Italian pasta market with a full restaurant. Hand-pressed ravioli, the fountain patio.
OrderWhatever ravioli is being run from the downstairs market, with a glass off the Italian list.
TipFree live music on the plaza patio nightly through summer; the deli takes pasta to-go.
Cassarino's on Atwells, opened 1988, is the candlelit Federal Hill room locals book midweek. Northern Italian classics, a marble bar, polished service.
OrderLobster ravioli or veal piccata; close with the house tiramisu.
TipWalk-in seats at the bar serve the full menu; book the booths through OpenTable.
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