Pirohy
Photo: Fry72 (Karel Frydrýšek) · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Pirohy are the Slovak first cousin of Polish pierogi and Ukrainian varenyky, Slavic-tradition filled dumplings codified in regional Slovak recipes. The bryndza-filled version is the Bratislava local; the sauerkraut and mushroom version anchors Christmas week. Pirohy share documented ancestry with the dumpling traditions of the Carpathian Slavs, traced to the medieval monastery kitchens of Spis and Saris regions.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400 g plain flour
  • 1 egg
  • 200 ml warm water
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 300 g bryndza sheep cheese
  • 100 g sour cream
  • 150 g smoked bacon, diced
  • Chopped chives

Method

  1. Mix the flour, egg, warm water and salt to a smooth dough. Rest 30 minutes covered.
  2. Roll the dough out thin on a floured board.
  3. Cut rounds with an 8 cm cutter.
  4. Place a teaspoon of bryndza on each round, fold in half and seal the edge.
  5. Render the bacon in a hot pan.
  6. Bring salted water to a rolling boil, cook pirohy in batches 3-4 minutes until they float.
  7. Lift out with a slotted spoon.
  8. Toss with the bacon and its fat, finish with sour cream and chives.

Tip from the editors. Seal the pirohy carefully; any crack lets the cheese leak into the water.

Where to eat pirohy

Pirohy in Bratislava

Slovak Pub ★ 4.3

€€ SlovakObchodna

Slovak Pub at Obchodna 62 is the city's largest Slovak room, eleven themed halls tracing Slovak history with handmade halusky from the owners' own farm.

OrderThe handmade halusky with smoked ostiepok and bacon; the pirohy second course.

TipFriday evenings fill fast; reserve in advance or arrive before 19:00.

U Sedliaka ★ 4.4

€€ SlovakObchodna

U Sedliaka on Obchodna 55 across from Slovak Pub serves bryndzove halusky in several variants and a slow-roasted Slovak duck of real renown.

OrderHalusky with bacon and smoked ostiepok; the duck is the second visit's order.

TipThe interior keeps communist-era touches; ask for the back room if the front fills with tour groups.

Modra Hviezda ★ 4.5

€€€ SlovakCastle Hill

Modra Hviezda on Beblaveho 14 climbs the slope toward the castle in a medieval brick cellar, family-run since 2009 with Slovak duck on the menu.

OrderSlovak duck with lokse and red cabbage.

TipThe walk up Beblaveho is steep; consider a taxi for older guests.

Koliba Kamzik Zelena ★ 4.2

€€ SlovakStare Mesto

Koliba Kamzik on Zelena 5 dresses an Old Town cellar as a Tatra mountain chalet, serving honest halusky, grilled meats and sheep cheese in the tourist core.

OrderThe Pirohy-halusky platter is the way in; the Kamzik's Plate covers the basics.

TipThe mountain-chalet styling pulls tour groups; ask for an inner room for quiet.

Dolnozemska ★ 4.6

€€ BelgianStare Mesto

Dolnozemska on Panska 7 hides in a 14th-century building cooking Slovak heritage recipes from the dolnozemski Slovak diaspora in Romania, Serbia and Hungary.

Why locals goTucked in a 14th-century building on Panska, cooks Slovak heritage recipes from dolnozemski Slovaks in Romania and Serbia.

TipThe Belgian beer cellar pours alongside the Slovak; the lunch denne menu drops the bill considerably.

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