History

Cambodian Americans settled in Oakland after the Khmer Rouge genocide of 1975 to 1979, building the city's Cambodian community around the Chinatown and San Antonio districts. Amok is Cambodia's national dish, traditionally steamed in banana leaf with coconut milk, lemongrass-galangal kroeung paste and freshwater fish. Battambang on Broadway has cooked the dish since 1993.

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g white fish fillet (cod or halibut)
  • 400ml coconut milk
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, white parts only
  • 2 shallots, peeled
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 thumb galangal or ginger
  • 1 tsp turmeric
  • 2 tbsp fish sauce
  • 1 tbsp palm sugar
  • 1 lime, juiced
  • 4 banana leaves, softened over flame
  • Fresh coriander to serve

Method

  1. Make the kroeung: pound or blend lemongrass, shallots, garlic, galangal and turmeric to a paste.
  2. Cut the fish into 3cm pieces. Marinate with the kroeung, fish sauce, palm sugar and lime juice for 15 minutes.
  3. Stir in half the coconut milk. The mixture should be thick.
  4. Form banana leaves into small bowls by folding the edges and securing with toothpicks. Spoon the fish mixture into each.
  5. Steam over simmering water for 25 to 30 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
  6. Top with reduced coconut milk and fresh coriander. Serve with steamed rice.

Tip from the editors. If banana leaves are unavailable, use small heatproof ramekins. The dish will lose some aroma but cook through the same way.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat oakland cambodian amok

Oakland Cambodian amok in Oakland

Battambang ★ 4.2

Cambodian$$chinatown

Battambang on Broadway in Oakland Chinatown has run a Cambodian counter since 1993. Beef lok lak and amok at thirty-year regulars-only prices.

Order: Beef lok lak.

Why locals love it: Oakland Chinatown Cambodian institution since 1993, frequently passed over by visitors heading to dim sum down the block.

Tip: Order across the menu with two friends; the spice levels are conservative by default.

850 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94607

Champa Garden ★ 4.4

Lao$$san-antonio

Champa Garden on 8th Avenue in Oakland's San Antonio neighborhood runs Lao family recipes since 2006. Quiet block, line out the door on weekends.

Order: Nam khao crispy rice salad.

Why locals love it: Off Lake Merritt on a quiet 8th Avenue block; the Bay Area's most authentic Lao kitchen runs largely by neighborhood word of mouth.

Tip: Bring two friends and order across the menu; portions are generous.

2102 8th Avenue, Oakland, CA 94606

Vientian Cafe ★ 4.3

Lao$$fruitvale

Vientian Cafe on Allendale Avenue in Oakland has cooked Lao-Vietnamese-Thai plates for two decades. Off the main strips, regulars only know.

Order: Lao sausage with sticky rice and papaya salad.

Why locals love it: Allendale neighborhood, away from Telegraph and the Fruitvale strip. Two decades of Lao-Vietnamese-Thai cooking with no media noise.

Tip: Cash only is faster; the rice plate combos are the under-radar value lunch.

3801 Allendale Avenue, Oakland, CA 94619

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